The Biker Blog

Lock your bike securely

2011-12-09T08:57:00.000+05:30

There are some simple precautions that you can take to minimize the risk:

1. Park your bike where it is in clear view of passers by. Avoid dark, poorly overlooked areas, especially if the bike is to be left there after dark.

2. Use good quality cycle stands where you have the option. The Sheffield type stand gives the best security in most instances.

3. Avoid stands that hold your bike by one wheel only. They can damage your wheels.

4. Use an appropriate quality lock for the location. Most locks now carry a security rating, the higher the rating, the more difficult the lock is to break. If a lock doesn't have a security rating it will deter opportunistic theft but not professional thieves.

5. Use two locks if possible - a high security lock to fix your bike frame to the stand, and a cable lock to protect the wheels.

6. Wrapping the cable lock once around the stand will help prevent your bike being knocked over and damaged.

7. Take any removal items (pumps, lights etc) with you.

8. If your saddle has a quick release lever, lock it to your frame or take it with you.

9. Park your bike in a considerate manner. If it is in other peoples' way it is more likely to get damaged.

All-Mountain Bikes

2011-12-06T20:07:00.000+05:30

Some riders just need more. As adventures get longer and trails more remote, many riders see increased value in reliability and downhill control.

The bigger tires, plush suspension and powerful brakes of the All-mountain bike are an insurance policy against accidents and mishaps and can be just plain fun to ride. With geometry suited to steep terrain and small drop-offs All-mountain bikes can inspire confidence, however, on more mild terrain they can feel sluggish.

If you are an all-day adventurer or ride harsh trails you may be an All-mountain rider.

Suspension tuning 101

2011-10-31T21:56:00.000+05:30

Just twenty years ago Paul Turner and RockShox introduced the modem mountain bike suspension fork. Known as the RS-1, this fork would prove its worth on the bicycle of 1990 World Champion Ned Overend. Now, as then, mountain bike suspension is still a little misunderstood, under maintained and under utilized. In order to get best performance from your mountain bike, it is important to take the time to learn the different adjustments of the suspension and tune it properly.

Bicycle suspension forks and rear shocks consist of two basic parts. The first part is a spring of consisting of air, a metal coil or an elastomer. The second part is a system of oil or air to aid the compression and control the rebound of the spring.

When adjusting the suspension, the place to start is with the spring. Metal springs have a weight rating in pounds. Air shocks are almost infinitely adjustable. The suspension operates best when it is under a certain amount of preload, or pre-compression. This preload is indicated by the amount of "sag", which is measured as a percentage of suspension or shock travel. Recommended sag varies by manufacturer, but an amount approximately 20-25% of total suspension or shock travel is a good starting point.

Measuring the sag requires a couple plastic wire ties, tape measure, a shock pump (for air forks and shocks) and maybe a helper. To adjust the suspension, first measure the length of upper fork tube or shock shaft to determine the amount of shock stroke. This information may also be in the owner's manual. Next, for air shocks, place a wire tie on the upper fork leg or shock shaft for the rear. Then, ride the bike around the street or yard, making sure the suspension is moving while riding. Stop, staying on the bike balancing yourself upon a stationary object. While sitting still, carefully slide the plastic tie down against the rubber seal on the shock. Now gently dismount the bike without disturbing the ties. Measure the distance between the seal and the tie. This is the "sag" Adjust the air pressure and ride again until this distance is the desired amount.

To adjust a rear shock with a metal spring, measure the shock eye-eye distance in an un-weighted position. The shock stroke will often be printed on the spring. Activate the suspension. Next, have your helper take the measurement again in the weighted position. The difference between the measurements is the sag. Adjust the sag by tightening or loosening the spring collar. If the desired sag cannot be reached, the spring may need to be replaced with one of a different weight rating.

In most shocks oil is used to control the action of the spring. When the fork or shock is compressed, this oil is forced through a valve. Depending on the valve size and compression speed the oil may or may not have any effect on the compression. For example, when riding slowly up a driveway curb the compression speed is very slow and the oil provides little resistance. If you jump off the house, however, the compression speed is very fast. Therefore, the oil is not able to move through the compression valve quickly and helps to prevent the shock from bottoming out. The opposite occurs in the rebound circuit when the spring extends the shock back to its neutral or unweighted position.

When adjustable, the rebound speed is the easier to adjust. When the rebound is too fast the shock feels too bouncy. There may be a firm clunk called "top-out" when the shock is unweighted. An easy way to adjust the rebound is to start with the valve all the way open. This provides the fastest, bounciest rebound. Ride around and feel how much the shock moves. Gradually slow the rebound damping to an acceptable level. Test it by riding off a curb slowly. Aim for a one bounce curb drop.

Conversely, the compression is easier to adjust from maximum. In this position, riding over obstacles will be a relatively harsh ride. A good place to test the compression is over some fast washboard or braking bumps. Reduce the compression damping until the harshness over the bumps is minimized. Also test it on some small jumps to make sure it does not bottom out too hard.

The tricky thing about adjusting suspension is getting everything to work in harmony. For example, when one spring is softened, the other is a little stiffer and vice-versa. If the rebound damping is too slow, the suspension will not have time to fully extend before the next impact. The shock just keeps compressing slowly giving a harsh ride or bottoming out. This is called "packing up". If the compression damping is too little the shock may bottom out too often.

The properly tuned suspension will be smooth in most conditions and bottom out once in a while. Reaching this goal can be a little time consuming. But it is however, very rewarding. That's because tuning suspension requires one of our favorites things, riding. And once it's done, riding is more fun because the bike performs smoothly and predictably. In fact, maybe it will have you riding like a champion.

BIKE TRIP CHECKLIST

2010-12-07T11:52:00.001+05:30

Bike maintenance

IS YOUR SEAT COMFORTABLE?

i. Padded sufficiently; time for replacement?

ii. Tightened to prevent swiveling

Tires inflated to 90% or pressure rating on the tire; be sure that the tires are not dry-rotted (from lack of use)
Gears are in proper working order; take the bike out for a spin and be sure that the gears work (you will need to know how to shift – much easier to pedal comfortably throughout the trip); if not a bike shop can rectify the problem
DO YOUR BRAKES WORK?

i. Brake pads harden over time and should be replaced at minimal cost

Seat is raised so that there is a slight knee bend when either pedal is in the down position
Handle bars are adjusted for comfortable arm and back position
Geared bicycles work best for a trip of longer distances. Attempting such rides with a BMX is not a good idea.
Shoes should be snug to prevent blistering and have enough grip to prevent slipping off the pedals.

Riding techniques

Rise slightly off the seat when encountering a big bump in the road, your lower spine and butt will appreciate it!
Pass on the left only when the way is clear and after announcing your intent to pass (saying, “on the left” is the usual)
Beware of the stop signs
Beware of your surroundings
Ride at your own pace

Cycling pants

With chamois or wicktek insert for comfort (consult your local bike shop)
Or compression shorts under regular shorts to prevent chafing

Head protection (bicycle helmet – ANSI rated)

Eye Protection

For protection against debris and insects

Cycling Gloves

To prevent hand numbness and fatigue

2 water bottles (there will be opportunities for refilling)

one filled with Gatorade or like product
one filled with water

Eucerin Cream

Inner thigh protection against chafing (apply before the trip)
Apply to the feet to prevent possible blistering

Cash

For food purchase

Fanny pack or back pack (small and waterproof if possible)

To carry food products and snacks

i. Bananas ( excellent source of potassium)

1. Place bananas inside of plastic bag before placing in your backpack; bananas spoil very quickly and can create quite a mess.

ii. Energy bars

Sun screen

Diet and hydration

Continue or begin hydration 3 days prior to ride at least 64 oz daily as a baseline
Eat foods rich in carbohydrates and potassium for energy conservation at least 3 days prior. There is not much added benefit carb-loading the day of the ride.

Dress appropriately for the weather. The ride may be cool in the morning and much warmer in the afternoon. You may want to consider dressing in layers; jacket-long sleeved shirt-short sleeved shirt.

Create your own exit strategy in the event that unexpected events occur or one is unable to complete the entire trip. Bring your cell phone if you can secure it.

RULES OF BICYCLING SAFETY

2010-08-04T12:09:00.000+05:30

Bicycle touring has its inherent risks. It is a sport whose safety is dependent upon the judgement and alertness of the cyclists. As a cyclist you are responsible for the way you ride and the condition of your bicycle.

For a Safe Bicycle

Your bicycle must be in excellent repair. Every bicycle needs thorough servicing annually. If you have not had this done recently, please have it done before your tour. Special attention should be paid to the functioning of brakes; condition of brake pads and cables, functioning and condition of derailleurs and derailleur cables; headset; cranks; trueness and cones of the wheels; tightness of seatpost, seat and handlebars; condition and pressure of tires. If you bring a new bicycle, ride it at least 50 times and then have it adjusted by a bicycle mechanic.

For Safety on the Road

Follow all traffic regulations as if you were driving a car.
Use hand signals for turning, slowing down or stopping.
Yield right of way to pedestrians.
Ride on the side of the road in the same direction as motorized traffic.
Ride a straight course near the side of the road (not too close to the side of the pavement so as not to risk going off the pavement).
Ride single file and keep several bicycle lengths between yourself and the cyclist in front of you. Allow even more room when going downhill.
Use Both Brakes at the same time, gently; never stab at them. On downhills pump both of your brakes. Do not apply them continuously, for this can cause them to overheat and stop working.
Dry your brakes by using them after riding through water on a wet road.
Never go faster than you can handle.
Never ride on a sidewalk.
Consistently check your mirror (if you have one) and listen for motor vehicles coming from behind and prepare to have them pass you.
Do not look behind you while riding a bicycle.
Do not make a left hand turn while bicycling. Dismount, look for traffic and walk across.
Never bicycle over railroad tracks. Dismount and walk across.
Be careful of parked motor vehicles. They may pull out into your path or a car door may open in front of you. Watch for exhaust fumes and look for a person sitting in the vehicle. Attempt to establish eye contact.
Stay at least five bicycle lengths behind moving motor vehicles. They can stop and turn more quickly than you on your bicycle.
Ride with caution over wet or sandy roads. They may be slippery and cause a fall.
Potholes, metal grates and other objects in the road must be avoided.

For Safe Bicycling

All cyclists must wear ANSI or Snell approved helmets at all times while riding your bicycle or resting on the side of a road. It is your responsibility to wear your helmet securely buckled.
Wear bright clothes to make yourself visible to motorists.
Make certain that you wear no loose clothing that can get caught in a bicycle chain or wheel.
We recommend using protective eyewear. If you wear corrective lenses for driving, wear them for bicycling. Make sure they fit tightly. We also recommend clear eyewear for cloudy/rainy days.
Make sure you are in good health and in sufficiently good physical condition to handle the exertion required by bicycling and other activities you undertake. A checkup with a doctor six months prior to your trip is advised

Brake controls and features

2009-12-14T16:15:00.000+05:30

1. See the manufacturer's instructions for installation, operation and care of your brakes. If you do not have the manufacturer's instructions, see an authorized dealer or contract the brake manufacturer.

2. Riding with improperly adjusted or worn brake pads is dangerous and can result in injury or death.

3. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can result in loss of control. Sudden or extreme application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may result in serious injury or death.

Familiarize yourself with which brake lever controls the front and which brake lever controls the rear wheel.

Make sure you can comfortably reach the brake lever and squeeze the brake with sufficient force.

Make sure the brake caliper release cam is in the closed position before riding.
If you are unfamiliar with the operation and use of the brakes, consult a professional bicycle mechanic.

Bike Brake Operation

2009-12-13T16:13:00.000+05:30

Stopping power of your brakes is a function of the brake pads contacting the wheel rim. To assure maximum braking function, your wheel rims must be free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.

Stopping power is also a function of proper use of the brakes. Like a motorcycle, your bicycle is equipped with independent front and back brakes. Your Leopard bicycle has been supplied with the back brake on the right hand side, and the front brake on the left hand side. It is important to use both brakes when stopping. As you apply brake force your weight shifts forward off the back wheel. It is important to practice the application of the rear brake without locking or skidding the tire. Skidding the rear brake may cause loss of control.

The front brake may be applied with equal or more force than the back brake, but this force must be applied smoothly without grabbing the front brake lever suddenly. As noted in the Warning above, sudden application of the front brake can cause loss of control.

Practice braking applying front and back brake pressure to better understand the braking forces before attempting any high speed riding on the road.

Be aware of the road conditions when applying your brakes. Wet conditions or loose surfaces will reduce tire adhesion resulting in longer stopping distances.

Shifting gears on your geared bicycle

2009-12-11T11:16:00.000+05:30

Warning: Shifting the gears under high load can damage the cassette cogs or chainrings, and possibly damage the chain itself. Avoid starting from a stop in a high gear (small rear cog and large chainring in front), and always attempt to shift with a light load on the pedals.

Caution: Avoid riding with the chain at extreme angles, with the chain in the small chainring on the front and the smallest rear cog, or the largest chainring in the front and the largest cog in the rear. These chain angles will cause increased wear on the chain, chainring and cogs.

Shifting the Rear Derailleur

The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifters.

The rear derailleur controls the movement of the chain on the rear cassette. The rear cassette consists of a series of gear cogs that are reasonably close in size, therefore the gear shifts from one cog to the other is a small change in the gear ratio or pedaling efforts.

Shifting the Front Derailleur

The front derailleur is controlled by the left shifter and shifts the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings on the crankset of the bicycle. Shifting the chain onto the smaller chainring lowers the gear ratio making the bicycle easier to pedal up hill.

Selecting the Optimum Gear Ratios

The small chainring in the front and the large cog in the rear provide the lowest gear ratio and provide the “easiest” gear for riding uphill. The large chainring and small cog in the rear provide the highest gear and can be used for downhill riding.

Selecting the right gear for your leg strength and pedaling style will develop over time. If you find it is “too hard” to pedal up hill in the lowest gear, consult a professional bicycle mechanic about changing the gear ratio on your bicycle.

Warning: If the derailleurs are not shifting smoothly, do not shift into the large or small cog in the cassette as the derailleur could be out of adjustment causing the chain to jam and resulting in a loss of control.

Caution: Do not move the shifter when the bicycle is stopped or pedaling backwards. This could cause the chain to jam and result in damage to your shifting mechanism.

If Your Bicycle is in an Accident

2009-12-10T11:13:00.000+05:30

First assess your personal injuries and seek medical help if necessary.

Inspect your bicycle for damage. If you see any damage, do not ride your bicycle until it has been inspected by a professional bicycle mechanic.

It is recommended that after any serious crash you have your bicycle inspected by a professional bicycle mechanic.

If you are concerned your frame or component may have been damaged please contact the manufacturer to discuss return for inspection and replacement under crash replacement program if offered. The crash replacement program usually offers replacement frame, fork or components at substantial discount to original purchaser.

Bike Break-in Period

2009-12-09T11:11:00.000+05:30

After the first 30 days the control cables may require some minor adjustment. After completing the mechanical Safety - consult a professional bicycle mechanic if you feel your bicycle needs adjustment.

Before every ride: perform the Mechanical Safety Check.

Regularly clean and lubricate your bicycle. The best lubricants may depend on the climate and riding conditions, and a professional bicycle mechanic can help you find the best lubricants for your area. It is recommended that your clean and lubricate your bicycle every 100 miles.

Maintaining your Bike

2009-12-08T11:07:00.000+05:30

After 10 to 20 hours of riding, or every long hard ride perform the following:

Inspect the brake pads for signs of wear, and check that they are contacting the rim squarely.
Check the headset by lifting the front wheel of the ground and turning it side to side. It should feel smooth without any binding or roughness. With the bike back on the ground squeeze the front brake and rock the bike back and forth with the hand just below the stem clamp. There should be no movement between the stem and the frame.
Inspect the cables for rust, kinks or fraying. Have a professional bicycle mechanic replace them if there are any signs of the above conditions.
Hold the crank arms with your two hands and check that there is no movement side to side. If there is any play in the bottom bracket or crank arms, have your bicycle serviced by a professional bicycle mechanic.
Inspect the wheels for loose spokes by taking a light screw driver and tapping each spoke and noting the sound is roughly the same on each side of the wheel. Also squeeze the spokes to check for loose spokes. A professional bicycle mechanic can tension or true your bicycle wheel.
Inspect the frame at all tube joints for any signs for cracks, discoloration or what appears to be deep scratches. These may be signs of stress-caused fatigue and should be inspected by a professional bicycle mechanic.
Inspect the handlebars, stem and seat post for any signs of cracks or deep scratches, as this may be signs of fatigue or damage. These parts should be inspected by a professional bicycle mechanic.
If the shifting is not smooth and quiet from gear to gear, have a professional bicycle mechanic inspect your bicycle for adjustment, wear of the cogs or chainrings, or worn and/or stretched chain.
Inspect the brake levers per the Mechanical Safety Check, if they are not functioning correctly, do not ride the bicycle and see a professional bicycle mechanic.
It is recommended that after every 50 hours of riding your bicycle be checked by a professional bicycle mechanic.

Iron and Your Cycling Performance

2009-04-08T21:37:00.000+05:30

To understand how much iron you need, it is important to understand iron’s role in the body. Iron is used to help develop the heme portion of the hemoglobin in the Red Blood Cells (RBC). Hemoglobin ism used to carry oxygen in the body.

When you have low oxygen in your blood, the body stimulates RBC development by releasing the hormone erythropoietin (AKA –EPO). This process takes about 9 days. The mature blood cell is functional for about 120 days at which time the body breaks down the cell and reuses the iron. Stores of iron are therefore rarely low as the body reuses its own iron. The only major loss of iron is due to blood loss. Hence, another reason not to crash.

The intestine regulates the absorption of iron based on the current body stores bound in transferrin. If the body is not low, your body will not allow you to absorb the iron. If you have excess iron, the body will simply store the iron in the liver. It will, however, not make more RBC.

A serving of 3 oz of meat can exceed the 10 to 18 mg recommended for your body each day. Among the meat, beef and pork offer the most absorbable iron. Vegetarians do not include these iron-rich foods in their diets. However, it is possible for the conscientious vegetarian to meet the iron needs with a well balanced diet. Good sources of iron may be found in non-animal food products such as lentils, black or pinto beans or split peas. Daily consumption of 2 1/2 cups of these lentils will meet the iron recommendation. Other goods sources of iron include spinach and enriched grains. Nutrition experts recommend that iron is consumed with Vitamin C. The Vitamin C aids in the absorption of iron. The interaction of these nutrients in the RBC production emphasizes the importance of a well balanced diet.

The Tour De France: It's All About Time by Louis Borgenicht

2008-10-31T22:04:00.000+05:30

The 2008 Tour de France lasted twenty-one days; the bikers rode cumulatively for eighty-seven hours, fifty two minutes and fifty two seconds (at least that was the winning time of Carlos Sastre as he crossed the line on the Champs Elysee on July 27th). Other less fortunate riders like Wim Vansevenat, the lanterne rouge, completed the Tour four hours behind the leader.

All told I dedicated close to eighty-seven hours, fifty two minutes and fifty-two seconds of my life to watching its progress. It is an annual ritual for me, one that my wife can't understand but does not object to. "My husband has become a couch potato," I hear her tell friends on the phone. Then nothing more. She is in it for the sprints. Dutifully I pause the hard drive and call her for the penultimate moments of the stage. Meanwhile I have sat in front of the television for three to four hours just to get to that point.

Versus (Channel 34) carried die Tour from its inception on July 5th to its completion twenty-one days later. The time honored British commentators Paul Sherwin and Phil Liggett were in fine fettle as usual and part of the annual attraction.

The concern I have is that there is no other televised event I watch with such blind dedication. In fact there is no television series running for thirteen weeks I am committed to. Actually my main source of news is The Daily Show with John Stewart, but cumulatively and allowing for the reruns shown when he is on vacation, my commitment to the Tour exceeds my dalliance with Stewart.

Aside from my curiosity about the race, its dynamics, the riders and its unpredictable evolution over twenty-one days an indisputable reward of my insistent television watching is that it permits me to vicariously meander over two thousand two hundred miles of France I have yet to see. My imagination wanders. I am sitting in a cafe sipping a cafe-au-lait in Chevreuse or lying on the perfectly cropped grass of le chateaus des dues de Bretagne hypnotized by the cumulus clouds hanging immobile in the summer air or I am awakening in my friend Jack's house in Gallargues (see My friend Jack in Bonjour Paris) to see the Tour ride by twenty feet from bis front door.

Several years ago I drove to a tiny town in Provence to see the race pass through. The drive took an hour and one half; we waited another hour, carousing with the locals; and saw Lance Armstrong ride through in a sconce. The peloton was moving at twenty-six miles per hour. You do the math. But evanescent as the moment was.. . I saw it and that was what a mattered.

Despite my deep curiosity about the Tour, I will watch any cycling Versus deigns to show me (e.g. The Giro d'ltalia, The Tour de Suisse, Vuelta de Espana etc.) but nothing compares with the drama and history of the Tour de France. Spaced out in the Spring, Summer and Fall these other races tide me over until I plop myself down on the couch for three weeks in July with fresh nectarine in one hand and the TV remote in the other. I never have to watch commercials. Over the three weeks of the Tour I figure I added at least nine hours to my life. So literally and figuratively the Tour, for me, is about time.

Vive le Tour de France

FANTASY BICYCLE

2008-08-01T19:30:00.000+05:30

Heart rate monitoring for Bikers

2008-07-09T06:43:00.000+05:30

There are some very sophisticated heart rate monitors on the market these days, computer down loadable, flight deck jobs, glow in the dark, double overhead cam shaft, multi buttoned gyro copter types, or the plain old read out & nothing else job - which is what I use.

Now you might say I'm a cheapskate but let's face it, you don't need a nice graph on a computer screen to tell you what you should already know. But hey, if you've got the extra $1000, then go for it!

No matter what kind of monitor you've got, you've got to know how to use it effectively. I wonder how many people out there wear their monitors and seldom look at them save to glance at it when going all out up a climb somewhere.

I'm not going to go into every minute detail of using the heart rate monitor as it isn't the only way of monitoring your progress and in a perfect world the best way to go would probably be to use a heart rate monitor and a lactate tester, as heart rate at times can lie. But used with common sense, the monitor can be a very valuable training tool.

Let's use long course to Ironman for instance. These races are predominantly raced at aerobic heart rates, which will burn fat. Swimming is the exception, which is actually done at substantially higher rates ie. at or slightly above anaerobic threshold.

When we think about how much time to spend in each heart rate training zone we should look at the type of race we are training for - long distance to Ironman in this case. The aerobic system must be built up and then trained for this type of racing. The volume of training in each heart rate zone should look something like this:

• 70-75% of mileage at low intensity, training below aerobic threshold
• 20-25% at aerobic maximum to low anaerobic threshold, long intervals, Ironman race pace training bricks and the like.
• 5-10% at high intensity, hard intervals, speed work at or slightly above anaerobic threshold.

HEART RATE VARIABLES:

It is important to keep a few things in mind with regard to doing sessions using heart rate only.

Thresholds can change from day to day, depending on how tired/stressed etc you are. Sometimes heart rates that you achieve during threshold sessions are easy to achieve one day and difficult the next. This does depend on how fresh you are and this is where a little common sense comes into play.

There is another training tool that should be used with the monitor and that is 'feeling'. You should always monitor your feeling during sessions. If you 're sitting on the normal rate you use and you're suffering, listen to your body and back down a bit. You should be able to get to a point in training where you can feel your threshold zone kicking in . Use your monitor and try to learn the feeling of being in these zones. The human body is a great instrument , far better than a heart rate monitor. Be honest with yourself and it can give you all the information and feedback you need, but only if you open your mind and give it a chance.

Environment has a big effect on threshold. Wind, heat and different surfaces can affect heart rate and this has been proven with lactate testers. Lactate levels taken on a grass surface were substantially higher than on even flat surfaces. Also weather conditions and traffic had an effect on lactates as well as the athletes state of mind. Stress is an anaerobic condition and has a big effect on a person's ability to train effectively. Coaches should always take into consideration a person's stress levels when determining the intensity levels of an athlete's program.

ZONES:
Each training zone has a corresponding heart rate range. The best way to find out what these zones are is to get a V02 max test (treadmill etc). Many sports centres and universities do these tests and it usually costs anywhere from $120 -$190.

It's worth doing. There are other mathematical formulas which involve subtracting age from a certain number etc. but these are variable and not very accurate so it's not advisable.

To give an example of how to use your zones lets assume you've done your test and the heart rates are this:
• Aerobic threshold- 154bpm
• Anaerobic threshold -173bpm
• Maximum heart rate -182bpm

For long distance and Ironman training you will want to stimulate the zone which is going to burn fat as the major fuel source, mostly below 154bpm. As you move further up the heart rate scale more carbohydrate is burnt for fuel - a source that has a maximum life of two hours. Thus it makes sense that you do the bulk of volume in the lower heartrate zones .

Here is a rough example of the heart rate zones for heart rate monitoring using the above test results:

For running ...
• Recovery- <127bpm,
• Lower aerobic- 133-143bpm, - long runs all mileage sessions.
• Upper aerobic - 145-152bpm, - long intervals slightly below long course race pace.
• Tempo/ AT- 159-173bpm, - speed sessions at or above race pace.

You do need to take into account when working out zones for cycling that the heart rates are around 8-10bpm less than running and the heartrates for swimming are around 15bpm less than running. Pay attention to your speed at these zones. It is worthwhile doing a test of some sort from time to time to test your aerobic efficiency. A 3-5km on a track at maximum aerobic heart rate (ie 154bpm the whole way) after a solid warm up. Take overall time and see how your speed increases over time at that heart rate with the improved aerobic fitness. This is what you should be looking for to improve long course and Ironman times. It is an effective measurement for short course specialists too.

SUMMARY:
Get tested - aerobic max, anaerobic threshold and max heart rate. Work the zones that are going to improve aerobic fitness- low aerobic to low (AT). Make a mental note of how those zones feel in training this will also help to make you a better racer. Don't live by heart rate alone listen to your body as well , use them in tandem and you'll go fast.

The 11 Important Ride Rules

2008-03-31T15:19:00.000+05:30

Make sure your bike is fuelled up before departure time
Do not pass the road captain
Do not overtake on the left hand side
Ride to your own ability and not others
Ride in staggered formation - not side by side
Indicate and use “cross over manoeuvre” to fill gaps when they occur
Ride in the same lane as the Road Captain in a multi-lane highway
Always maintain a safe distance from the rider in front of you
A riders briefing will be held prior to departure
On winding or narrow roads staggered formation is not advised – use correct riding style for cornering but leave plenty of room between bikes for braking
All riders must have a current applicable licence

3 Most Common Types of Biking Crashes

2007-06-09T15:16:00.001+05:30

1. Riding out of a driveway without stopping first and looking for traffic.
2. Not stopping at a stop sign (rolling stop) and looking for traffic before crossing the street or turning.
3. Turning left or swerving left on the road without checking behind for traffic.

***In addition, riding against traffic is a major contributing factor in all types of bicycle crashes!

Note: Young people are not miniature adults. Children only see about 2/3 of what an adult sees peripherally. They have difficultly telling which direction a sound is coming from and they tend to lack a sense of danger. They have trouble judging the speed an object is coming at them and are restless and have trouble waiting for things like a traffic signal to change. They tend to focus on what is important to them at the moment (the friend they are riding with) instead of where they are going and things like traffic. They also believe that adults (drivers of vehicles) will look out for them.

DRIVERS ARE NOT ALWAYS WATCHING OUT FOR YOU….ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE DISTRACTED OR IN A HURRY.

THE HURT LOCKER by Will Caroll

2007-06-09T06:46:00.000+05:30

Athletes often ask themselves, when it comes to racing “why am I doing this?”, “it really hurts”, and “do I want to hurt that much?” Nearly always at the 30k of every Ironman they say “I’m never doing another one of these!”

So how do you deal with this? The truth really lies within you. Before you even start training you would have asked yourself, ‘Am I here to finish or here to do the best I can and get a PB?’ If you have answered yes to either one of those, then at some time during a race you are going to visit the “HURT LOCKER”!! (If you have answered no to both than stop reading now!)

I always find it unusual that people will go out every morning and afternoon, sometimes at obscene times, to get their training done. They do this and then seem to think just because they do that, and tick off all the training sessions that they are entitled or are going to have a good race. Whilst your chances of having a good race is greater due to all the training, you will never achieve your full potential without being prepared mentally to deal with uncomfortable periods during the race.

Let’s face the facts; the fitter / better prepared you are, going into a race, the more likelihood there is of you going faster. However to reach that potential, you are going to need to dig deep mentally when things inevitably get tough on race day to unlock all that hard work that you have been putting in. It is not going to happen just because you are fit. In fact the fitter you are the more you may have to suffer as you push the boundaries further than before. To do this you need to start working on your focus and feeling your way for a race during training. Your ability to successfully deal with the uncomfortable periods during the race (because everyone else will have to do this too) can be the difference between an average race and a great race, between a DNF or a finish.

So how do you do this? Well everyone is different and deals with discomfort and effort in exercise differently. I found when I competed that focusing on things you can control like form, nutrition and pacing, as well as asking yourself the questions that you have gone over before the race can serve as a distraction from the “pain”. What pace am I going? Too fast? Too slow? What is my heart rate? Am I eating/drinking enough and at the right times? Answering these questions and solving any problems not only will help your focus and ensure you are doing the right things, but all of a sudden you find yourself through the rough patch and your training kicks in and off you go again. This process may need to be repeated many times over a race, however concentrating on things you can control instead of the pain which is essentially wasted energy, will aid your performance / pace and also get you through the tough times.

Another way push through the barriers is to set yourself smaller goals throughout the race. For example, aim to run to the next aid station at a certain pace and then when you get there aim for the next one. It is the little mental tricks and questions that you internalize throughout the race that can turn a walk into a jog, a jog into a run, a run into a finishing sprint no matter how much you may be suffering.

Essentially it is up to you to get through these difficult times. Internalise your suffering and think positive at all times. Don’t forget even with a good training base behind you, you will, or more importantly should be still hurting in any race……..that’s a given, but internalize the hurt, work through it, and ask the key questions. That way you will be able to tolerate it, go to the “hurt locker” and come out the other side striving / achieving personal bests in no time.

Biking - Ready to Ride Checklist

2007-06-04T14:07:00.000+05:30

1- Properly fitted helmet
2- Bright yellow vest (orange if last in line)
3- Properly fitted bike
4- Check A,B,C’s

A = Air – Proper tire inflation
B = Brakes – Check to see both front and rear brakes work
C = Chain and crank

*If any of these items are not in working order, repair or if unable to repair – choose another bike

A bicycle is defined as a vehicle. The operator of a vehicle is granted the same rights and subject to the same duties of the driver of any other vehicle.

Ride with Traffic: Always ride on the right side of the road going in the same direction as other traffic. Ride as far to the right as practicable (not as far right as possible). Practicable means safe and reasonable.

When is it not practicable?
1- When passing another vehicle traveling in the same direction
2- When preparing for a left turn at an intersection or driveway
3- When reasonably necessary to avoid unsafe conditions (fixed or moving objects, parked or moving vehicles, pedestrians, animals, or surface hazards).

Hand Signals: Bicyclists are required to use the same hand signals as motorists. Hand signals are required within 50 feet of your turn.

Hand Signals for turning and stopping:
Left turn = Point left hand to the left with arm parallel to the ground
Stop = Point left hand down toward the ground. Shoulder to elbow parallel to the ground and elbow to hand straight down
Right turn = Point left hand from elbow to hand straight upward. elbow to shoulder parallel to the ground.
****Alternate Right turn – Point right hand with arm parallel to the ground to the right.

Passing: A motorist passing a bicyclist in the same lane must give the bicyclist at least 3 feet of clearance and maintain that clearance until safely past. Bicyclist must do the same when passing.

Biking at Night: Requires at least one white front headlight and a red rear reflector. The white front headlight must be visible to others at least 500 feet away. The red rear reflector must be visible to others between 50 and 500 feet away. A red steady or flashing light may be used in addition to the required reflector.

How Bike Races are Lost in the Kitchen

2007-05-08T21:40:00.000+05:30

Would you drive to Los Angeles with half a tank of gas? Only if you wanted to be stranded in the middle of nowhere. Many cyclists race on half empty tanks and lose. Wining races is not just about being strong. Eating properly gives you the energy to win. It’s your choice, win or lose.

My son Ethan went to all his races last year on a half empty tank of energy. That is what we learned when we sat down with Katherine Parker, a sports nutritionist (see her article below). I called Katherine for help because all Ethan seemed to eat was cereal. Nothing I said had an impact on him. Think of a car and every time you fill the tank you put in one less gallon of gas. Soon you run out of gas. That is exactly what Ethan used to do.

Wake up at 7 AM: cereal. Got to school. An apple and a sandwich at noon. Home: bowl of cereal. Ride 1-2 hours with a calorie expenditure of 500-800. Come home: bowl of cereal at 5 PM. Try to study. Bowl of cereal at 6 PM. Dinner at 7 PM, nibble at it because still full from cereal. Study. Bed. Start over.

Ethan was digging a deeper and deeper nutritional hole for himself, because he never had enough calories on board, and was eating the wrong food selections. This also puts stress on the immune system, and kids are more likely to get sick.

After working with Katherine, Ethan began eating like an athlete, with more frequent smaller meals, more balance between carbs and protein, vegetables and fruit. He gained 10 pounds very quickly and has noticed a big change in his energy levels. He feels stronger riding, has more energy to study, and actually eats his dinner. So far this season, Ethan has broken all his times from the year before by several minutes. Some of that is eating better, some is what I’ve taught him (sorry can’t help myself; I have to try rewriting history).

If your cyclist is on the milk and cereal diet, get some advice from a nutritionist. Kids listen to a nutritionist when they won’t listen to us, particularly if you can find someone who has been an athlete and works with athletes. If your cyclist has any specific health issues, check with your child’s doctor first.

How to Endure Your Endurance Sport! - by Carrie Cheadle

2007-04-07T20:32:00.000+05:30

Anyone can have a great ride or a great race on a beautiful sunny day when they are feeling strong, confident, and full of energy! When participating in endurance sports you will have times when your body can’t keep up with your demands and you will need strong mental skills to keep you going. Preparing for the times when cycling will be challenging helps to maintain a consistent performance despite any obstacles thrown your way. Remember, the challenge of cycling is part of the reward!

FOCUS
Your thoughts impact your cycling performance. Wherever your focus is, that is where you are directing your energy. Negative thoughts can move in a downward spiral, taking you and your performance with them. Keeping your thoughts positive and constructive is key to maintaining focus, confidence, and having a successful performance. Here are some tips for keeping your thoughts working for you:

1. In control/Out of control
Oftentimes when you find yourself in that downward spiral, you'll notice that you are thinking about things that are out of your control. Remember that the weather, road conditions, and flat tires, are all out of your control. Focusing on them only wastes energy that could be better used towards pedaling and moving forward. You can't control those things, but you can control your reaction to them.

2. Cue word
Cue words and phrases are great tools to have when you find that you need to regain your focus or find the energy to make that final push up the pass. Cues like "Focus", "Smooth", and "Power!" can help your mind influence your performance. Some athletes choose an image of a powerful animal chasing its prey, or the sun radiating energy through their body into their legs. Choose a word, phrase, or image that is meaningful and powerful for you. When you are faced with a challenge, use that word or image to help you focus on your performance in a positive way.

RELAX
The key to success in endurance sports is to stay relaxed. If you are feeling tension or stress 50 miles into your 120 mile ride, you are burning up valuable fuel that you're going to need to push you through to the end. Practice the tips below when you are feeling tense. Practicing them in everyday life will make you better at using them on the bike.

1. Breathe
Your strongest ally in reducing physical tension in the body is to remember to breathe. Physical tension in the body affects breathing, balance, focus, and energy level, elements that are essential for optimal cycling performance. Taking deep, full breaths circulates oxygen through the body to feed your muscles and fight early muscle fatigue.

2. Body Scan
Start by relaxing your face muscles. Just relaxing the muscles in your face can cause other muscles to relax as well. Scan your body from head and shoulders to feet; relax any muscles that are tense in order to save that energy for the next uphill push, or your next turn at the front of the pace line.

TRAIN FOR ADVERSITY
In Lance Armstrong's book, Every Second Counts, he describes the morning of the first mountain stage during the 2000 Tour de France. "On the morning of the stage, I awoke to a freezing rain. I hopped out of bed and threw back the curtains, and I burst out laughing. 'Perfect,' [he] said. It was suffering weather, the kind that could defeat a lot of guys as soon as they got up in the morning." While his competitors groaned and dreaded the upcoming day, Lance celebrated because he had trained on this mountain pass, under these exact conditions. He had an edge over his competitors before the stage even began.

When you train for adversity, not only do you prepare physically, but you mentally prepare for the conditions as well. Knowing how you react under stressful and challenging situations will help you prepare for how to deal with them in training and competition. Feeling prepared is the #1 key to feeling confident. Lance was confident that he would outperform the competition because he felt prepared. The other thing Lance did was to change his perception of riding in the rain. Instead of dreading the rain and doubting his ability to ride through it, he welcomed the challenge. Try to see adversity as an opportunity to become stronger and meet the challenge versus viewing it as a negative experience.

Greg LeMond said, "I have always struggled to achieve excellence. One thing that cycling has taught me is that if you can achieve something without a struggle, it's not going to be satisfying." Experiencing ups and downs in cycling is inherent within the sport, but how you deal with them is up to you. Developing strong mental skills helps you to perform consistently through adversity and challenge.

Cold-Weather Cycling by Alan Bragman, D.C.

2007-02-18T14:26:00.000+05:30

Having grown up in the Midwest and lived in the south, I have experienced some incredible weather extremes. They include riding in temperatures as low as 7F degrees and running and cross-country skiing at -20F. Several years ago while vacationing in the California wine country; I rode from Calistoga to Sonoma in 115F-degree heat. This was not a particularly fun ride, especially when I ran out of water with 10 miles to go. An elderly woman watering her garden saved me by filling my bottles.

Most riders need to deal with extreme weather if they train year round. Professional cyclists certainly do. They're subjected to blinding snowstorms, hail, rain, and terrific heat. Lousy weather is just another challenge in a very difficult profession.

As a recreational cyclist you are not under this same pressure to get on your bike no matter what. However, if you limit yourself to riding only on sunny, mild days you won't ride very often. Training in extreme conditions doesn't have to be unpleasant if you have the proper attire and preparation. This eArticle will discuss how to cope with cold weather.

Cold Facts

It takes time to acclimate the body to cold weather. The first few days of riding in the cold will be the worst. With time the body adapts by producing more heat at a faster rate. The more time spent exercising in the cold, the faster this adaption occurs.

As we age, however, our bodies become less tolerant and slower to adjust to weather extremes. Older cyclists generally have decreased peripheral circulation and they produce less body heat, making it harder to keep hands and feet warm.

Air temperature is not the only factor determining how cold you might feel on a given day. Other variants include wind speed and direction, humidity, and cloud cover. A common method of measuring the temperature sensed by the skin is the windchill index.

When the index temperature (chart below) is above -25F degrees, no unusual precautions need to be taken. When it goes below -25F degrees, you're the zone of increased danger. Special care should be taken with regard to clothing and exposure in order to maintain a safe body temperature. When the windchill reaches -74F degrees or below, you're in the zone of great danger. Exercise should be severely limited, postponed or done indoors.

A key factor affecting windchill is wind direction. Riding into a crosswind has but a fraction of the impact of a headwind. Of course, riding into a headwind can dramatically increase the windchill because your road speed adds to the wind speed. On cold and windy days, try to ride in parks, neighborhoods or on sheltered road with natural wind breaks such as trees, buildings or hills. Also consider dividing a ride in half so you can get warm in between. During cold conditions some riders choose to start the ride with a tailwind so they can warm up, then face the headwind on the return trip. Other riders prefer the opposite -- fighting the headwind when they're fresh, then U-turning to let the wind blow them home.

Layer It On in the Cold

2006-12-08T14:35:00.000+05:30

When temperatures are in the 30s Fahrenheit or below, it's time for serious layering.

Typically there are three layers in a cold-weather clothing system. The base or wicking layer lies against the skin and is responsible for pulling moisture away so you remain relatively dry. This minimizes wet conductive heat loss. Commonly used fabrics for the base layer include polypropylene, polyester, Capilene, Thermax, wool and, more recently, carbon fiber. Cotton is the worst base-layer material. Cotton holds moisture against the skin and feels cold, wet and heavy. In my experience, silk isn't much better.

Second, we have the insulating layer. Its prime function is to trap warm air and continue taking moisture away from the body. Synthetic fibers work great for this because they retain their insulating properties even when wet, and they do it without bulk. Fleece is the “in” fabric because it's light and has a high insulative value. It also dries quickly and is easy to care for.

The third layer is the jacket or shell you wear on top of the base and insulating layers. It must resist wind, rain and snow, and hold in warmth while allowing enough body heat to escape to prevent overheating. It needs to let in cooling air through zippered openings and vents. Open the front on climbs and in tailwinds, close it on descents or in headwinds. Beware of outer layers made of nylon or plastic that keep rain and wind out but hold in body heat that makes you wet inside. High-tech fabrics such as Gore-Tex are pricey but they perform well in harsh winter conditions and hold up through years of use.

Road Rules for Cyclists and What You Need on a Bike

2006-12-07T20:44:00.000+05:30

Cycle Paths

The road rules say you should use one if it is available. Note this does not mean you must use one. The web-based advice does not make this clear. So, for example, if you are commuting or road training on a bike, and find it easier to stay on the road, you are legally allowed to do so.

Riding on Footpaths

No, you can’t. Unless you’re a postie, or delivering leaflets, or where a shared path is designated – some footpaths are dual-use, and will (or should) have a cycle symbol on a pole or on the ground. There are increasing numbers of these around the country. They are not always well sign-posted, so it pays to check with the local council, cycling advocacy group or cycle club for a guide as to where they are.

Note that pedestrians do not necessarily expect cyclists, even if it is clear that they should. It is good manners, and will generate more support from pedestrians for cyclists, if you do not speed past them, or too close to them. Remember how annoyed you feel when motor vehicles do that to you on the road. If you have a bell, use it. But not an air-horn. Scares the daylights out them.

This would be where traffic is heavy, fast, or both, and it would be safer to use a footpath. It would particularly apply to, say, kids biking down to the shops or the park; or commuters avoiding snarled traffic. Most observe that the police seem to accept such behaviour, as from a police viewpoint it is better to have cyclists out of harms way. And motorists probably prefer it, too. They add that the main thing is to be VERY courteous to pedestrians when doing this, as it is primarily their space. Much of this is common sense. And they should explain to children to watch out for cars coming in and out of driveways…

Cycle lanes

A few things have been made clear about cycle lanes:

• Vehicles cannot park on cycle lanes, unless specifically marked otherwise. This means it is no longer legal to have a designated cycle lane that also allows car-parking. You are now officially allowed to glare at the owners, and ring the local council to complain. (See below for more on making complaints).

• Lanes must comply with regulations. For example, there needs to be a cycling symbol, or a bus lane symbol (which means cyclists and motorcyclists are allowed to use the lane).

Bus Lanes

You can ride on bus lanes, as noted above, but not if it says Bus Only.

Lights

You can have a flashing rear red light at night, and that is sufficient.

However, while you can have a flashing front light (white or amber), you must also have a steady (non-flashing) light.

Helmets

You have to wear one on the road. But a few comments:

It’s absolutely pointless having one that does not fit. Ask your bike shop to make sure it does so. And do it up.
Helmets won’t stop you being hurt. They can reduce the severity of injuries in many types of accident, particularly at lower speeds and are invaluable if you are doing things like mountain-biking, Skulls and trees don’t mix. But do NOT rely on them to keep you safe, especially from motor vehicles. Equally or more important is to ensure such things as your brakes work and your tyres are in good condition (bald tyres won’t stop you in a hurry, and you will get more flats). Get your bike serviced regularly, or learn to do it yourself. Improve your riding skills, be aware of changing road conditions, and wear reflective or bright clothing to ensure others see you. And wear a helmet.

Biking in Cold Weather - Dress for Duress

2006-12-07T14:28:00.000+05:30

Rule No. 1: It is always better to be a little overdressed and need to peel
off layers as you warm up than to be cold without additional clothing to put on.

The key to successfully dealing with the cold is to dress in layers and keep skin dry. The body loses heat quicker when it's wet from rain or sweat, and this increases the danger of hypothermia. A properly dressed cyclist can tolerate extremes in air temperature, but a variation of only about 7F degrees in the body’s core temperature. So the most important physiological adjustment to cold is maintenance of body temperature.

The body's reaction to heat loss is to reduce peripheral blood flow and constrict surface blood vessels. This is why keeping hands and feet warm on a cold ride can be so difficult.

For many years before the advent of synthetic materials, wool was the fabric of choice for cold-weather cycling. Wool is a unique natural fiber that has the ability to retain body heat and wick moisture from the skin. It insulates even in the rain. Wool has the reputation of being itchy, difficult to care for, and apt to shrink and lose its shape. Recent advancements have solved these problems in wool garments made to be worn by active people. They are machine washable, shrink resistant and comfortable against the skin.

But there are other choices, too. Synthetic fibers may have the same properties as wool but cost less and last longer. These include polypropylene and polyesters that go by such names as Thermax. Cannondale
has even introduced apparel made from carbon fiber.

Winter jackets need to block water and wind without trapping so much body heat that a cyclist becomes wet with perspiration. Materials such as Gore-Tex and eVent accomplish this with varying degrees of success. A good cycling jacket will also have openings and vents that allow enough fresh air to flow through to limit heat buildup. Adjusting air flow with the front zipper is the trick to helping any jacket work better.

Underneath, layering of clothing is the key to keeping the core warm, comfortable and dry. Layering also gives you the flexibility to add or remove clothing based on weather conditions and your level of exertion. The rule of thumb for most experienced winter riders is to dress so that it feels chilly during the first few minutes. Starting off cool and warming up is lots better than starting off warm and getting hot. Moderate exercise even in subfreezing temperatures produces 7-10 times as much heat as the body at rest.

Clothes that retain heat and moisture can make for a very uncomfortable ride. When temperatures are in the 50-60F range, arm and leg warmers and a light wicking shirt ("base layer") under a jersey will work well for most riders. You should always keep knees covered when temperatures are below 65F degrees. The knee joint has poor circulation so it is one of the first areas susceptible to cold. When the mercury slips into the 40-50F range you will need to add a skullcap or balaclava, long-finger gloves, toe covers and a long-sleeve jersey or breathable windbreaker.

What should you wear while cycling?

2006-12-07T12:13:00.000+05:30

Cycling Shorts

Not everyone wants to wear lycra shorts but they do have their place in cycling.
Cycling shorts are practical and functional as they have a chamois (paddled bit) in crotch which prevents saddle sores, chaffing and allows you to ride comfortably for longer periods of time. Cycling shorts should be tight fitting to ensure comfort and not loose around the crotch as the chamois may rub.

Do not wear your underwear under your cycling shorts as this will course irritation and can harbor bacteria. It is important for hygiene reasons that you wear a clean pair of cycling shorts each time. Warm moist areas are ideal places for both bacteria and fungus to grow.

Jersey

Cycling jerseys are designed for convenience and protection. Most jerseys will have pockets in the back which will allow you to carry food, spare tube, money etc. The protection factor relates to the design of the jersey which is long at he back which prevents the lower back getting chill when you are bent over the handlebars.

Jersey should be fitting as this will reduce the wind drag and stops your top flapping around. Choose a riding jersey that is bright in colour so you are visible to motorist and pedestrians.

Cycling Shoes :
When you first start cycling you may start out without cycling shoes or may have toe straps this is fine for a beginner but one you start to ride more it is recommended that you purchase cycling shoes. They help transmit power from your legs to the pedals which is a more efficient use of your energy and allows you to ride more effectively for longer periods of time.

It is recommended when buying cycling shoes you look for shoes that will be a good firm fit as you will be spending many hours in them. You also need to be aware of the compatibility of the shoes with your pedal system. Your local bike shop staff should be able to help you select the appropriate shoes for you and your bike.

Cycling Gloves

Cycling gloves or mitts are specifically designed to provide protection from in case a fall and help absorb some of the jarring that is transferred through the handle bars. Cycling gloves will have full or half fingers and have padding on the palms.

Helmet:

Wearing your helmet while cycling is a legal requirement in most countries and it important for protecting you head. There are many brands and models of helmets which will vary in price. It is important that you purchase a helmet that has an ANSI/ national safety approved sticker in the inside, please don’t remove the sticker as this allows commissaries (officials) to easily recognize your helmet as safe one.

In some road, team and track events you may be able to use aero helmets, these helmets are aerodynamic, check when entering an event whether you can use an aero helmet. (They will still need to be up to the safety standards)

Tights/Leg Warmers

It is important to keep the leg muscles warm while warming up and out cycling in the cold. Tights are worn over your cycling shorts and are normally lycra or woolen.

Leg warmers only go from under each leg of the shorts to the ankles, and can easily be removed and put in your pockets.

Training Jacket

Are used for cold days or mornings and the training jacket should have a high neck, have a wind cheater front (either nylon or thermal type material) have breathable panels down the sides or be made of a synthetic material that breathes.

General

You should wash all cycle clothing after each ride, make sure your drink bottle is kept clean and avoid sharing it with others.

We all enjoy cycling on nice days but remember that the sun can do damage to your eyes and skin so wear your sunglasses and sun block.

Glasses are very useful for keeping the bugs and wind out of your eyes.

Remember while you are cycling you want to be as visible as possible, this will help motorists and pedestrians see you. We suggest that you wear bright coloured clothing whenever you ride.

Equipment for Cycling in the Cold

2006-11-22T14:42:00.000+05:30

Few things in cycling are worse than trying to repair a flat tire in the cold. To avoid this miserable situation many cyclists use heavier tires, perhaps with a puncture-resistant Kevlar belt under the tread. The added width also provides better control in adverse road conditions.

Some riders have a "beater" bike so their best machine doesn't get trashed on sloppy winter roads. Others ride a mountain bike on the road during the winter, perhaps equipped with studded snow tires. These bikes can be equipped with a rear rack and trunk for carrying extra clothing, food and spare tubes.

The most important thing is to get on the bike despite cold weather to maintain your fitness. Riding during winter can be a fun way to experience the change of seasons. However, no one will blame you if you draw the line and forego outside riding when the roads are dangerously slippery or the weather is simply too severe. You can still get an excellent workout if you ride inside on rollers, a resistance trainer or in a spinning class. Conditions will improve in a few days and you can get on the road again.

For cold-weather cycling, remember VIP: ventilate, insulate, and protect. Ventilate body heat to reduce sweat. Insulate your body, particularly high blood flow areas such as the head, neck and extremities. Protect yourself from wind, rain and snow with appropriate outerwear.

Remember that spring is just around the corner. And if winter simply gets too unbearable, you an always sneak off for a week of riding in Florida or Arizona!

Food and Drink for Cycling in the Cold

2006-11-19T14:39:00.000+05:30

Adequate nutrition and hydration play a major role in your ability to regulate body temperature and ride effectively in winter. You may not sweat much in low temperatures (in fact, it's better if you don't) but you still lose a significant amount of fluid when breathing cold air, which must be moistened and warmed in the throat and lungs. Humidity levels in cold air are much lower, which explains the dryness felt in the throat and sinuses. When you exhale you lose more fluid. That's the breath you see on a cold day. And urine production increases due to a phenomenon known as cold dieresis.

When you drink cold fluids, your body expends energy to heat them to body temperature. Many cyclists riding in winter actually have higher caloric needs than during warmer weather. Contributing are adverse conditions caused by the increased weight of clothing, heavier equipment, and stronger winds. The added weight of winter clothing alone can cause a marked increase in oxygen consumption.

As the saying goes, there are three times when you should drink on a winter ride: when you are thirsty, when you are not thirsty, and in between. Becoming dehydrated during winter not only will hinder performance, but it can make it harder to maintain proper body temperature.

Of course, it can be difficult to prevent fluids from freezing. Two solutions: Wear a CamelBak hydration
system under your jacket or place your bottles close to your body. Using energy drinks containing carbohydrate and electrolytes will lower the freezing temperature several degrees and assist with caloric replacement. When off the bike, avoid drinks containing caffeine or alcohol as they contribute to dehydration by increasing urination. Alcohol also speeds heat loss through dilitation of the superficial blood vessels.

Some athletes experience a condition known as exercise-induced asthma. This causes the bronchial passages in the lungs to constrict during hard exercise. Cold, dry air can precipitate an attack. Covering the mouth with a scarf, balaclava or ski mask can help warm incoming air.

Never go on a winter ride without carrying sports bars, gels or some other form of high-energy food. Even if you don't intend to ride long enough to need anything but a sports drink (about 90 minutes or less), you could be out longer than expected due to change of plans or a mechanical breakdown. Bonking on a freezing day isn't just unpleasant, it can be dangerous. Like with fluids, carry your food inside your jacket so it doesn't freeze.

Protect your body from the cold during Biking

2006-11-07T14:37:00.000+05:30

Head

Keeping extremities warm in cold weather is a challenge because the body attempts to preserve its core temperature by reducing blood flow to its outlying parts. This is why it's often said that the best way to keep hands and feet comfortable is to cover your head. It's smart advice when you realize that more than half of heat loss can occur through the head, particularly with us older males who have minimal hair.

In cool weather, a helmet cover, ear band or skullcap is usually enough. Be careful not to overprotect the head and cause sweating. When the temperature dips into the 40s or lower, switch to a lightweight balaclava. This garment pulls on like a hood, covering the head, ears and neck but leaving some or all of the face exposed. A thin balaclava protects well without making your head too hot, and it has the added advantage of fitting inside your helmet without the need to change to thinner sizing pads. If your head covering does make your helmet too tight for comfort, remove the pads or buy a larger size for winter.

Hands

Hands are particularly vulnerable to cold, being forward in the wind and locked in position with pressure on them. In merely cool weather, thin long-finger gloves will make your hands more comfortable on chilly metal brake levers. As the temperature drops, insulated gloves become necessary. Look for models made with Thinsulate or another non-bulky, heat-retaining material. Around freezing or below, switch to "lobster" mitts. These pool hand heat by putting the first two fingers in one compartment and the last two in another. They're almost as warm as mittens but allow more dexterity to operate the bike. For even more warmth or when it's wet, wear thin synthetic liner gloves inside. These trap more heat and wick moisture to keep hands drier and warmer.

Feet

Feet are tough to keep under any circumstance but particularly when it's wet. Start with good-quality, medium-weight wool, Gore-Tex or double-layer socks. Consider adding thin synthetic liner socks for extra cold conditions. Beware, however, of wearing so much that your shoes fit too tightly and reduce circulation -- a sure recipe for cold feet and numb toes. For this reason, some riders own a pair of cycling shoes one or two sizes larger than normal to wear in winter.

In cool weather, covers over the front of your shoes (toe warmers) may be all that's needed. As it gets colder, switch to full booties made of neoprene or water-resistant fabric. You can find models with fleece lining for extra insulation. In extreme conditions, winter cycling boots may be the only way to keep feet warm. These have soles like regular cycling shoes but with an ankle-high, insulated top. Some riders use battery-heated socks or chemical foot warmers when none of the above works well enough. Keeping feet dry is a key to success, so if you ride frequently in wet and slushy conditions, install fenders to reduce wheel spray.
Legs

Cycling shorts should always be worn under tights that don't have a built-in padded liner. For merely cool conditions, thin tights made of Lycra or polypropylene are appropriate. When it gets colder, switch to fleece-lined tights. In subfreezing temperatures, consider tights with a windproof material on the front of the legs. In brutal conditions, some riders wear a thin insulating base layer of silk or polypropylene under their tights.

Eyes

Wear eye protection for comfort and safety no matter the time of year. Eyewear blocks UV rays, wind, precipitation and flying debris. In winter it does something else crucial for your safety by preventing excessive tearing that makes it hard to see on fast descents.

Finally, don’t forget to use lip balm with a high SPF rating. UV rays and cold, dry air can irritate and crack unprotected lips.

Simple Design for Multi-use trail sign for bike-legal trails

2006-10-09T19:40:00.004+05:30

Trail conflicts can be especially thorny between cyclists and equestrians, because both seem to prefer a narrow trail and a more natural experience. Equestrians, however, must contend with a 2,000-pound animal with sharp hearing and a “fight-or-flight” instinct. In these circumstances, education of the bicycling community is critical. When cyclists are sensitive to equestrians on the trail, and communicate with equestrians to negotiate a pass, problems are rare.

IMBA Rules of the Biking Trail

2006-10-03T19:36:00.000+05:30

The way we ride today shapes mountain bike trail access tomorrow. Do your part to preserve and enhance our sport's access and image by observing the following rules of the trail, formulated by IMBA, the International Mountain Bicycling Association. These rules are recognized around the world as the standard code of conduct for mountain bikers. IMBA's mission is to promote mountain bicycling that is environmentally sound and socially responsible.

1. Ride On Open Trails Only. Respect trail and road closures (ask if uncertain); avoid trespassing on private land; obtain permits or other authorization as may be required. Federal and state Wilderness areas are closed to cycling. The way you ride will influence trail management decisions and policies.

2. Leave No Trace. Be sensitive to the dirt beneath you. Recognize different types of soils and trail construction; practice low-impact cycling. Wet and muddy trails are more vulnerable to damage. When the trailbed is soft, consider other riding options. This also means staying on existing trails and not creating new ones. Don't cut switchbacks. Be sure to pack out at least as much as you pack in.

3. Control Your Bicycle! Inattention for even a second can cause problems. Obey all bicycle speed regulations and recommendations.

4. Always Yield Trail. Let your fellow trail users know you're coming. A friendly greeting or bell is considerate and works well; don't startle others. Show your respect when passing by slowing to a walking pace or even stopping. Anticipate other trail users around corners or in blind spots. Yielding means slow down, establish communication, be prepared to stop if necessary and pass safely.

5. Never Scare Animals. All animals are startled by an unannounced approach, a sudden movement, or a loud noise. This can be dangerous for you, others, and the animals. Give animals extra room and time to adjust to you. When passing horses use special care and follow directions from the horseback riders (ask if uncertain). Running cattle and disturbing wildlife is a serious offense. Leave gates as you found them, or as marked.

6. Plan Ahead. Know your equipment, your ability, and the area in which you are riding -- and prepare accordingly. Be self-sufficient at all times, keep your equipment in good repair, and carry necessary supplies for changes in weather or other conditions. A well-executed trip is a satisfaction to you and not a burden to others. Always wear a helmet and appropriate safety gear.

Keep trails open by setting a good example of environmentally sound and socially responsible off-road cycling.

FREERIDING: THE MOVEMENT DEFINED

2006-05-18T19:58:00.000+05:30

Nearly 20 percent of the United States’ adult population, or 39.3 million people, are estimated to have participated in off-road mountain biking in the last year. The number of participants has remained fairly steady while the number of enthusiasts has grown nearly 150 percent.* No matter how it’s measured, the sport of off road and freeride mountain biking continues to grow in popularity, but what exactly is it?

The International Mountain Biking Association has defined freeriding as “a style of mountain biking that celebrates the challenges and spirit of technical riding and downhilling." Freeriding is in fact a form of mountain biking that involves riding freely on a bike. It is a relatively new sport, which combines different aspects of mountain biking, such as downhill and dirtjumping as well as some cross-country.

"Defining 'freeride biking' is like defining 'freeride skiing' - it means different things to different people," said Pete Webber, Communication Director for the Colorado-based International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA). “Basically it's a style of mountain biking that focuses on technical and more challenging riding. It doesn't mean that it's for experts only; it means that instead of going for a 20-mile ride people are going on a 5-mile ride to push skills on difficult terrain to try to master it."

Regardless of how one defines it, the sport has gained a tremendous following over the last few years. Snowshoe Mountain’s bike program business has increased 180 – 200 percent since 2003. Freeriding and downhilling is helping to utilize valuable ski resort facilities in warm-weather months. These facilities also provide an ideal setting for freeride parks, technical downhill trails and dirt jumps, attracting people from all around the country to the region’s largest four seasons resort. Snowshoe’s lift accessed park allows mountain bikers to make three times as many runs as without lifts.

Snowshoe offers over 100 miles of cross-country, downhill and freeride trails. In addition to the lift-accessed mountain bike park, a slopestyle and dirt jump park will be added to the list of mountain biking attractions this season.

IMBA’s 2005 Ski Resort Honor Roll

Whistler, CANADA: Model facility for lift-serviced riding
Deer Valley, UT: Brilliant cross-country and downhill trails
Tamarack, ID: IMBA's Trail Solutions develops state-of-the-art trail network
Snowshoe, WV: Intrawest building Whistler of the East

Winter Park, CO: Great variety of trails, including beginner-friendly options

The hundred cols tour 4000 km

2006-01-21T14:40:00.001+05:30

The toughest bicycle ride in the world? Four thousand kilometers over the toughest and best known cols in France!

The Hundred Cols Tour is the ultimate challange for the bicycle rider. 4000km overr all the great mountain areas of France, passes more than hundred cols and almost sixty côtes. This is an individual challenge. Whoever succeeds in doing this tour may find himself under the strongest riders in the world. The Hundred Cols Tour can only be done by riders that have a tremendous perserverance. Indeed: The Ultimate Challenge..

History
This route "100 Cols Tocht" was introduced in 1979 by the NTFU (Nederlandse Toer Fiets Unie, the Dutch sport cycling association). Immediately there was a lot of interest. Shortly afterwards, they stopped their interference, until a few members from the Utrecht cycling club RTC De Domstad decided to do the route and adapted it over the years. In 1983 they first published it. In 2003 the Tour was further taken care of by the Hundred Cols Foundation. Since 1979 more than 1000 participants have subscribed of which more than 200 have finished, some of them even a few times. It's a very challenging, tough but incredibly beautiful ride. Many newspapers and magazines have already reported about it.

Route

Since 1979 the route has changed considerably. In 1983 we added the Couillole, Bonnette and Grand Colombier. The second major adaption was in 1989, when nearly 1000K was changed as the mountain roads are getting more and more popular than ever. In this way Marie Blanque and Ballon d'Alsace were added and Haguenau became the new starting point, instead of Wissembourg, which replaced Bitche. Nowadays it's Saverne in the NE of France, just NW of Strasbourg. Since 1992 the route was adapted every two years, latest in 2005, and alternatives were searched for busy roads.

The itinerary is a sequel of mountainous areas. In total there are 106 cols and 85 côtes. We recommend doing it in the described direction. Not only because it's easy to follow the directions, but also as it has a more natural ascent in difficulty. The first part is firly easy. After a few Vosges cols (up to 700m) the route goes to Plateau de Langres to Bourgogne and Beaujolais (up to 1000m). With lots of cols. Eight cols / 100K is not an exception. The Beaujolais goes into Massif Central, with the infamous Puy Marie as the highest (15% ascent). We didn't include the Puy de Dome as it is a 'cul-de-sac' and not permitted for cyclists. After troublesome Gascogne with its many, short and tough climbs the Pyrenees come up next (up to 2000m) with tough climbs of 10 to 20%. Then we descend to the Cevennes, with easier climbs. The section from the Rhône to the Provence is fairly flat, but once we climb out of the Rhone valley, we quickly arrive at Mt.Ventoux, which is no doubt one of the toughest climbs especially since it's nearly always quite hot here. Then we go through the Alps. The first cols from the Alpes Maritimes only reach to 1000 m, but they are very steep. Col de la Bonnette is among the highest paved cols in Europe. Now the other giants follow one another, with the Galibier as its highest climb and finishing it off by the spectacular climb (16%) to the Grand Colombier.

After the Alps the Jura and Vosges are much easier, though the Grand Ballon at 1400 m and 15km of climbing is quite difficult nonetheless. Then we finish with many small, but tough climbs finishing off everything with a climb to the well-known St. Odile's abbey.

Toughness/difficulty.

The steepness of cols is varying. Most major cols are between 7 and 12% steep, but there are a few steeper climbs such as Marie Blanque, Menté, Portet d'Aspet, Peguere, Solperiere, Ventoux, Buis, en Grand Colombier.

The NTFU didn't say for nothing this is the world's toughest ride. Cycling in the Pyrenees and Alps is difficult, but especially the continuous lengthy climbs are very hard on a human body, both physical and mental. Total denivellation is 56 K. In comparison, the well-known Liège- Bastogne-Liège is 3K and the Tour de France 20 K in altitude gain. It's important to train and having a few years’ experience in cycling mountainous areas (Ardennen, Eifel) is recommendable. As the major cols don't open up before June 1 there's enough time to get trained in spring. Your best bet is to train in the Belgian Ardennes or another hilly area in your region. From Holland it is recommended to cycle to France by bike, so as to add a training element in the Belgian Ardennes hills and Northern France. Those who have finished the ride mostly used 20 to 40 days to finish, often divided over several years. Participants were beween 18 and 72 years old, both men and women have done it. So far as many as thirteen women finished. We think that the 100 cols ride can be done by any healthy and fit cyclist provided they take enough time. In some cases it's recommended to get a physical examination prior to the ride in a specialized sports centre.

Natural beauty.

This "100 cols tocht" is not just the toughest, but according to nearly all participants also the most beautiful ride in the world. You will encounter beautiful, varied landscape and magnificent vistas. If you truly want to enjoy this, take your time and read guide books. The route goes right through many regional parks, and a lot of attention has been devoted to making it a scenic route. Sometimes you may do a shorter route in between 2 controls but you are not really doing yourself a favour by short-cutting it.

The 100 cols package.

As soon as you have paid by giro you will receive the package at home. It is available only in Dutch. The envelope contains:
- description of the route
- profile of the mountains.
- index list of all cols en côtes
- address list (to get road info on some cols)
- control booklet
- recommmendations for luggage
- alternative routes in case a col is closed due to weather circumstances
- information on getting there
- print from 100-cols register (with names of finisher)
- information bulletin

Not a race

The route is not a race and there is no record. Every participant gives her/his best. We will not cooperate in record, which will be difficult nonetheless as the route changes every 2 years. The only record we recognize is that of Ton Handgraaf from Haarlem: he completed the 100 Cols at the age of 73.

CALCULATING CYCLING CALORIES

2006-01-09T10:58:00.000+05:30

New Years resolutions have been set and many are embarking on their first century training program as a result! In order to maximize performance, it is essential to fuel yourself properly during training rides and racing, especially when you are riding longer than 2 hours. As a nutritionist, I have found that many cyclists tend to overestimate actually cycling energy expenditure, causing them to overeat during the day and gain unwanted weight during season. Furthermore, an overzealous calorie intake during training can trigger a multitude of stomach issues (e.g., nausea, diarrhea, vomiting, side stitches, sloshing) and ultimately diminish performance. Below is a step-by-step guide to help you determine your total calorie burn during training rides as well as your target calorie replacement needs after about 90-120 minutes of cycling. Happy riding trails!

Step #1 Determine your goal cycling speed

Step #2 Multiply cycling speed coefficient (see table 1) by your total body weight.

Step #3 Multiply Step #2 by 60 minutes to determine hourly calorie expenditure.

Step #4 Add 22 calories to Step #3 for every 100 feet climbed during cycling event.

Step #5 Multiply Step #4 by 0.3 to determine minimum hourly calorie replacement demands

Step #6 Multiply Step #4 by 0.5 to determine maximum hourly calorie replacement demands

Table 1. Calculating Calorie Expenditure during Cycle Workouts

Average Speed (mph)	Coefficient (cal./lb./min.)*
15	0.0561
16	0.0615
17	0.0675
18	0.0740
19	0.0811
20	0.0891
21	0.0975
23	0.1173
25	0.1411

Sample Case Study:

Joe is a 150 lb athlete gearing up for his first Ironman®. He has had issues with premature muscle fatigue and cramping during previous races which has lead him to seek nutritional advice with regards to race day fueling. We used the guidelines specified above to help calculate and devise the perfect nutrition plan for his needs.

The Ironman® bike course Joe will be racing has a net elevation gain of 1000 feet. Joe’s goal cycling speed, as practiced during training, is 19 mph, which yields an energy coefficient of 0.0811 calories/lb/minute, and places him at the bike finish in 5.89 hours.

Step One: We calculated Joe’s hourly cycling expenditure.

0.0811 x 150 pounds x 60 minutes = 730 calories

Step Two: We calculated Joe’s total cycling expenditure.

730 calories x 5.89 hours = 4,303 calories

Step Three: We added on appropriate calorie expenditure based on the course profile.

For every 100 feet of elevation gained, Joe adds 22 calories to his total expenditure:

(1000 feet gained / 100 feet) x 22 = 220 calories

220 calories + 4,303 calories =4,523 calories

Step Four: We calculated Joe’s total calorie replacement goal during the bike leg of his Ironman®.

MINIMUM: 0.3 x 4,523 calories = 1,357 calories

MAXIMUM: 0.5 x 4,523 calories = 2,262 calories

Step Five: We calculated Joe’s hourly replacement goal during the bike leg of his Ironman®.

MINIMUM: 1,357 calories / 5.89 hours = 230 calories

MAXIMUM: 2,262 calories / 5.89 hours = 384 calories

Step Six: We discussed how Joe was going to replace these calories.

Because Joe spent the first 90 minutes of his Ironman® swimming, calorie replacement on the bike can start immediately upon pedaling! On training rides, water is the only nutrient needed during the first 90-120 minute. We calculated Joe’s calorie needs during the bike leg to average ~1,800 calories. In order to simplify his nutrition, Joe customized his sports drink. Each serving of his sports drink contains 200 calories, 45 grams of carbohydrate, 5 grams protein, 375 mg sodium, 110 mg potassium, 30 mg magnesium, and 15 mg of calcium. Joe’s goal is to finish 1.5 servings (~300 calories) each hour during the bike leg. Instead of carrying a lot of weight on his bike, Joe opts to mixing his formula into a concentrate and using the water at the aid stations spaced in 8 mile increments to meet his fluid needs. On his bike, Joe has 2 back-loading bottle holders and then one more on his stem. On race day, he plans on carrying two 24-ounce bottles, each containing 900 calories or 4.5 servings on his bike, and then one course-provided bottle of water. Joe plans on taking shots of his formula every 10 minutes along with water so that 8 ounces of his concentrate and 24 ounces of water bottle are complete each hour.

7 Do’s and Don'ts of Riding and Racing Bicycles

2005-12-31T14:24:00.000+05:30

What follows is a list of dos and don’ts that I have learned from experience, either painful or embarrassing, but usually both. For those who these anecdotes are teaching you to suck eggs then sit back and have a chortle at how foolish yours truly has been. Others please learn from my mistakes so you don’t have to make them.

1. DON’T attempt to adjust your cycle computer sensor while the wheel is in motion. I’ve put this one first as I still wince at the pain and stupidity of this howler I committed on the 2004 Torture 40. I was having a great ride until I badly sliced up 3 digits in my front spokes. I was forced to stop at a stranger’s house and beg for plasters. Blood everywhere and scars to this day. 10 minutes down on the group I was with as well. The only consolation is that pros have been known to do the same thing with instances of fingertips lost to bladed spoke. Don’t do it!

2. DON’T ride through puddles that you can’t see the bottom of. I got caught out by this at the very start of this year. I don’t feel quite so silly about this one as it was an innocuous puddle and I was mildly distracted chatting to a friend. However the puddle turned out to be a 5 inch deep crater and I was thrown straight over the bars onto the tarmac. Ouch.

3. DO set up your bike correctly. This is important every time you take your machine out of the car for a race. The anecdote I’ll cite is from my 2003 Etape ride. On arrival in France I had set the saddle height to a little scratch on the seatpost that I thought was the correct adjustment. I hadn’t taken a tape measure with me and it felt about right so I didn’t double check. It was only when dismantling for the return journey that I realised I had been approximately 10-15mm too low. I’m not blaming this for my poor ride that year but it certainly can’t have helped. Saddle height is one of many adjustments. Be aware of all things mechanical, particularly anything relating to your safety such as brakes and tires.

4. DO carry all the required food, liquid, spares, and tools that you require, or have the means to acquire them. We all occasionally get caught out by forgetting something, but always remember the fundamentals – spare tube, pump, 30p for the ‘phone, and a credit card to buy your way out of trouble. Other bits I can recommend are some form of ID, an allen key tool, a chain splitter, tire levers, patches, and if you have an aluminium frame a rear mech hanger. I was once on a weekend offroad ride intending to camp out on the Ridgeway but we had to call the whole thing off on day 1 due to a bust mech hanger and no way to replace it on a bank holiday.

5. DO know your route. Again an anecdote from the 2003 Etape. Many people and magazines had done such in depth analysis of how many watts it was going to take to get up such and such a col and how many sips of energy drink and at which points you would need them that I rebelled and didn’t take heed. I had an appreciation of the route and I got through OK but I should have been much more aware of the course. It would have made me prepare better and more conscious of pacing myself. For road races, time trials, and cyclo cross the course will affect your equipment choice with gear, wheel, and tire choice being important considerations. Even on a clubrun look up the destination so you know what type of terrain to expect. That way you are at least mentally prepared.

6. DO arrive at your race in good time. You want to arrive at the HQ with plenty of time to spare. You will need to sign on, pin on numbers, go to the toilet, pump up the tires, perhaps say some prayers to your chosen deity and do 101 other little things. And if it is a time trial your riding

7. DON’T miss your start time. At the second club hill climb last season I managed to miss my start time by 15 seconds. In a 100 mile TT this wouldn’t have been a problem for me, but for a 3’30 hill climb starting 15 seconds adrift was dumb. The only saving grace that day was that Dani had been caught out by #4 above. He was riding a borrowed carbon disc wheel with tubular tires and had punctured with no means of repair gifting me a hollow victory. Dumb and dumber?

I am sure that other more experienced riders will be able to add many more to this list and I look forward to hearing some more DOs and DON’Ts. I can laugh now at my misadventure but if there is one thing to learn from this it is DON’T STICK YOUR FINGERS IN THE SPOKES OF A MOVING WHEEL.

Road Rash

2005-12-07T20:40:00.000+05:30

No one likes to crash, but it is a part of cycling and most of the time your pride is all that gets hurt, plus a few tears in the Lycra. Your clothing helps prevent injuries, but sometimes you get cuts and scrapes, so is important to learn how to carefully assess and care for your cuts and scrapes if you fall. Most race venues have a first aid station and often EMTs or paramedics to provide assistance. They will likely have the materials to clean and dress your wounds, but not all races and events provide this service. One of my crashes occurred at a course in the middle of nowhere. I had no supplies with me and when I went to registration to get help, a guy gave me a band-aid out of his wallet. I had to drive 30 miles to an emergency department with a make shift dressing using napkins from a drive through restaurant and a t-shirt. I wasn’t prepared and I won’t make that mistake again. Be prepared and don’t count on others to take care of you.

The first step in deciding how to take care of a skin injury is making an assessment as to the type of wound. ‘Road rash’ is a generic term generally referring to an abrasion. Abrasions, loosely defined as a skin injury that grinds away layers of skin, are often very painful. The most superficial layers of skin are removed and this can expose the sensitive underlying nerve endings. That is why a small abrasion often hurts more than a deep laceration. Usually there isn’t much bleeding associated with an abrasion because few of the small blood vessels are exposed and those that are may actually be cauterized by the friction forces of the crash itself. What ever bleeding does exist should be controlled with direct pressure. If the bleeding continues, it is likely that the wound is deeper than you initially suspected and evaluation by a physician is important.

The next step is wound cleansing. At the race site, I recommend that you use clean tap or bottled water with some sterile gauze and gently rinse and clean the wound. The cleaning process is usually more painful than the actual crash. Over-the-counter medications like acetaminophen (Tylenol) and ibuprofen (Advil) can help with the pain. Then at home it is very important to clean the wound thoroughly. Although this is often the most painful step, it is definitely the most crucial. The skin serves as the barrier to harmful bacteria between the outside environment and our bodies. Once the skin is damaged via an abrasion, that barrier has been breached. The healing process will be delayed and scarring more prominent if the wound is not clean. The shower is a great opportunity to clean the wound. You must push through the discomfort and scrub away the dirt. If you cannot do the cleaning process yourself then be sure to have someone help scrub. The cleaner the wound, the less the chance of infection and the sooner the wound will heal.

Once the wound has been thoroughly cleaned you are ready to apply a dressing. It is important not to apply a dry dressing, like dry gauze to the wound because this will dry and stick to the tissue, removing healing tissue when it is changed. A non-stick dressing such as Telfa or petroleum impregnated gauze such as Xeroform will work very well. These are available over the counter and should be a part of your race kit. If you do not have these you can saturate dry gauze with an antibiotic gel. It is important to keep the wound covered and moist. Not too moist however. When a dressing gets wet from seeping fluid from the wound it should be changed. If the wound becomes too moist it will delay healing. If the surrounding skin looks like you’ve been in the bath tub too long, the wound is too wet.

You should change the dressing 2-3 times per day in the first 48-72 hours. This allows you to keep the wound and dressing clean. If an infection starts it will likely develop in the first day or two. Signs of infection include swelling, redness, warmth, increased pain and discharge or pus. After the first 72 hours you can usually apply a dressing after a morning shower and leave it open to air in the evenings if you are in a clean indoor environment.

The best dressing for road rash on the legs and arms when riding is telfa or xeroform gauze held on with Band-Net (looks like white fish-net stocking). One of the most challenging components to any dressing is getting the supplies and often you have to make do with the materials you have available. Also, every cyclist should have a tetanus booster at least every ten years.

Road rash supplies are an essential part of a medical kit that is imperative for all competitive cyclists to have their own kit. (We will have more on medical kits later.)

Supplies for a Road Rash Kit

Your name, health insurance information, contact names and numbers
Normal saline or bottled water
Betadine or hydrogen peroxide
Dry sterile gauze
Non-adhesive dressing material, both telfa and xeroform gauze
Medical bandaging tape
Band-net
Polysporin antibiotic ointment
Non-latex gloves
Scissors
Band-aid type bandages of varying sizes.
Ibuprofen or Tylenol (know appropriate doses and safe use)

Remember, the ultimate goal is to prevent infection and allow the tissues to heal. When in doubt, see a physician.

First-aid kits for the Road

2005-09-09T08:51:00.000+05:30

Personal information card

Name, Date of Birth
Allergies
Medical conditons
Blood Type
Emergency Contact Inforamation
Health Insurance Information

1 bottle normal saline/sterile water
4 non-stick gauze (Telfa)
12 gauze, 6 2x2, 6 4x4
topical atibiotic gel (Polysporin, Neosporin), large tube
2 tape, atthletic/cloth 1/4in, 1in.
3 pairs, non-latex gloves
band aids/variable sizes
1 bottle, (over-the-counter) ibuprofen (Motrin/Advil) 200mg
1 bottle, otc acetominophyen (Tylenol) 500mg
1 bottle dyphenhydramine (Benedryl) 25mg
1 Epipen (if allergic to bee stings, other, h/o anaphylatic reaction)

The purpose of this kit is to be able to clean and dress a wound at the race venue and have medications that can be taken for pain or in case of allergic reaction. Any wound or injury that needs something not contained in this kit will likely require immediate medical evaluation/attention. If unsure, please be seen by a medical professional.

Freeride Bikes

2005-09-06T20:05:00.001+05:30

Freeride bikes are designed to ride the most extreme types of terrain. Steep chutes, large rocks and roots, big jumps and drop-offs, and just about anything else, natural or man-made, that you can imagine.

With only the occasional concession made for even the thought of riding uphill, freeride bikes are mountain biking’s version of monster trucks. Blurring the line between bicycle and motorcycle, bikes with eight inches of rear wheel travel, three inch wide tires, and eight inch diameter brake rotors are commonplace.

If you are attracted to the challenge of going big and see mountain biking as a source of individual expression, Freeriding will appeal to you. And what does any extreme athlete need? Well, a Saint to watch over him, of course.

Optimal Focus for Racing - Carrie Cheadle

2005-08-06T08:46:00.000+05:30

The ability to focus allows you to maintain concentration over a period of time and tune-in to what you need to and tune-out the rest. There are many different factors to focus on while you are on your bike. Figuring out what cues to tune-in and which ones to tune-out can be challenging. To be a successful racer you need to be able to control your thoughts and focus on the things that help you perform your best.

Dealing with Distractions

Your ability to control your focus and deal with distractions can make the difference between having a great race and being miserable. There are two types of factors that can break your focus (if you let them!): external factors and internal factors.

External Factors: These are things that are outside of you that can break your focus.

External factors include the weather, crowd noise, other competitors, etc.

Internal Factors: These are things that are inside of you that can break your focus. Internal factors include negative thoughts, emotions, past performances, etc.

“There comes a time in every race when a competitor meets the real opponent, and understands that it’s himself.” Lance Armstrong

Oftentimes the things that distract you the most are completely out of your control. If you choose to focus on things that are not under your control, you are wasting precious energy that could be better used for the next climb. By focusing on the things that are in your control, like your attitude and your reaction to the situation, you are focusing on the things that will help you to ride your best. Try this exercise:

1. Brainstorm a list of things that are likely to distract you during a training ride or race.

2. Think about how you would normally react in those situations.

3. Now think about how you would like to react in those situations.

If you have trouble figuring out how you would like to react in those situations, think about a cyclist that you admire; how would they react in that situation? How does a cyclist who is confident, professional, and successful deal with adversity?

The 3 W’s for Optimal Focus

There are CRITICAL MOMENTS during your performance; key points and transitions when you need to have optimal focus in order to perform your best. They are not only specific moments during a race, they are also times when you are likely to become distracted and lose focus. Grab a piece of paper and divide it into three columns. The heading of your columns will look like this:

Critical Moment

WHEN

Focus

WHERE

Cue

WHAT

WHEN

The 1^st step in developing awareness for optimal focus is knowing WHEN you need to focus. In the 1^st column, list all of the critical moments for your race. Some examples are:

* at the starting line * getting a flat tire * feeling pain or fatigue * when cars are on course

* after a crash * at the feed zone * dropping a water bottle

WHERE

In the 2^nd column write out WHERE your focus needs to be. Be specific. What do you need to be thinking and doing in order to succeed in that moment? Planning for WHERE your focus needs to be during these CRITICAL MOMENTS allows you to choose your focus in order to take control of your performance. Tip: Think about what you want to have happen vs. what you don’t want (i.e. instead of “I don’t want to be in the back.” think “I want to be in the front.”).

WHAT

FOCUS CUES are tools that help remind you of WHAT you need to be focusing on and can help you to refocus. There are three types of FOCUS CUES:

Verbal: These cues are powerful words or phrases like “Focus”, “Power”, “I’ve trained hard”, and “I love to sprint!”. Remember to keep verbal cues positive and constructive.

Visual: A visual cue is something that will always be with you, a piece of equipment that you can look at to help you refocus (i.e. your handlebars or shifters). A visual cue can also be an image in your mind that helps you to relax or feel confident in order to regain focus. Think about a scene from your favorite funny movie to help you relax after getting a flat tire. On the starting line, think about your favorite cyclist to and how they would look and what they would be thinking at that moment.

Physical: You can also use physical cues like taking a few deep breaths, or stretching out your fingers and relaxing your “death grip”, in order to take control of your focus.

FOCUS CUES need to be practiced and used consistently in order for them to enhance your performance. You can also pair cues together like taking a deep breath and saying “I’m confident and in control” or looking at your handlebars and saying “Be here now.”, in order to get yourself refocused on the race and the task at hand. FOCUS CUES help you to figure out WHAT you need to do to bring your focus where it needs to be, when it needs to be there.

EXAMPLE of OPTIMAL FOCUS WORKSHEET:

Critical Moment WHEN	Focus WHERE	Cue WHAT
1^st few laps before prime bell.	Keep to the front of the pack, be aware of riders moving up from behind, no gaps, be willing to ride in the wind.	“How’s the view?”
Sprint for the prime.	Timing sprint. Sprint through the line.	“Dig deep.”
Getting a flat.	Changing flat calmly and quickly. Get to pack and start moving up towards front.	Breathe deep. Relax. Let it go and get back on track.

If you can’t control your thoughts, then YOU have become your own biggest competitor. You take the time to tune your bike; you should also take the time to tune your brain! A lapse in focus can be the difference between just completing the event, and finishing knowing that you gave it everything you’ve got, that you left it all out on the course! Take the time now to plan for your optimal racing focus. Sometimes the difference between you and the cyclist next to you is how you have prepared for the race. Awareness of distractions and planning your optimal focus helps you get the edge and get control over the mental side of racing.

“On a bike, your consciousness is small”: a book review

2005-06-12T14:34:00.000+05:30

“Meyrueis, Lozère, June 26, 1977. Hot and overcast. I take my gear out of the car and put my bike together. Tourists and locals are watching from sidewalk cafés. Non-racers. The emptiness of those lives shocks me.”

That’s the opening paragraph of Tim Krabbé’s novel, De Renner (1978), translated out of the Dutch by Sam Garrett for a 2002 Bloomsbury paperback, The Rider (0-7475-5941-4; £6.99). Instantly, we are at the beginning of the action: the novel will follow, kilometre by kilometre, a top amateur race in the Gorges du Tarn region of France. And we are thrown just as decisively into the protagonist’s state of mind – the monomania of the racing cyclist, who scorns everyone but those who, among his own kind, race in the way he recognises and esteems.

Rod MacFadyen lent me a copy of this novel late last year. It is a book that should be read within the duration of the race it describes. As the kilometres and the cols go by, the narrator (Tim Krabbé indulgently re-imagined by himself as a real contender) is in the breakaway group that must produce the race winner. With him, finally, are a fellow spirit, Kléber (‘He lives to ride’), an immensely strong veteran, Lebusque, and a wheelsucker ominously impervious to all admonitions, the youthful Reilhan. Around Krabbé, a wraith-like peloton of the great riders travel along with the hero, as their examples, their adages, and his fantasies of emulation goad and sustain him. The rhythm of the book in part captures the growing exhaustion of the hero, as his reveries become increasingly prominent as he rides to his physical limit. As only the best stories can bring about, the reader is in conflict between taking the time to enjoy sufficiently the insightfulness of every page, and the urge to rush ahead to reach the finish – will he get it, the big win that his choice in life has led him to and now brought him in sight of, the win he deserves?

The Rider is immensely convincing: this race had to have happened, and had to have been ridden out exactly as told. About half way through my reading, I decided that I had to follow the narrative on a map as well, and only when I found that I could exactly follow the race in the Michelin road atlas of France, and see the kilometerage of the race coming exactly off the page, did I think that I was actually looking at an imaginative writer’s research. Further research of my own into the author himself revealed that he had indeed been intensely fascinated with cycling, but in his prime was just too bulky a rider to have been ‘de Renner’ of the novel.

‘The rider’, whose body is a subject as deeply fascinating to him as his mind. He describes training harder and harder, and says of his body as it adapts to carry out his will, ‘I was touched by its loyalty’. He attacks in the race, and says this (and this is typical of Krabbé’s vividity) - ‘The decision catches me off guard. The way you can mull endlessly over getting up in the morning – and suddenly find yourself standing next to the bed. Your body got up, and you were in it’. ‘Why do I do it?’ he asks himself, over and over, amid the epic suffering that an 85 mile race over long climbs can inflict. And he allows himself an unrestrained expression of bike sentiment by way of answer: ‘after the finish all the suffering turns to memories of pleasure, and the greater the suffering, the greater the pleasure. That is Nature’s pay-back to riders for the homage they pay her by suffering.’ People in general, he reflects ‘still have bodies that can walk for five days and four nights through a desert of snow, without food, but they accept praise for having taken a one-hour bicycle ride…’

And isn’t it true, that many people go through life just ignorant of what their bodies can do, while the bike, in our otherwise over-comfortable lives, informs us exactly about what we might achieve in a proper ordeal?

‘I am a hero, you see’, reflects our hero: the novel admits us to that private confession. Does the novel know about a cost in this solipsistic self-realisation? Krabbé’s other novels are The Vanishing and The Cave. As a professional academic, I’d never let a small detail like never having read either of them stop me forming a surmise about them. What you remember from the former novel (in film form) is that the hero, so as to know, consents to have the abductor of his girlfriend repeat on him whatever it was that happened: and he wakes up from a sedative drug buried alive in a coffin. You choose to enter a cave, a cave doesn’t just happen to you: the hero of de Grot is an academic who descends into drug smuggling, loses his moral bearings in pursuit of money to fund an excavation. Krabbé has to be interested in the self-knowledge found among decisions made against normal inclination, and a kind of liberation amid vanishing options.

The rider traverses an immense landscape, but is the prisoner of his own obsession: at one point, the alienation expressed in that opening paragraph flashes out in sexual form, in his sudden hatred of a pretty girl whose encouraging shout interrupts his reverie, and draws his bilious attention. His chosen form of fulfilment may or may not arrive at the end of 137 kilometres.

The author’s main fame is as a chess expert, who has assembled a collection of the most amazing chess moves of all time. The Rider makes some explicit analogies, in its attention to the fluctuations of a race: a racer, like a chess player, can always make a sacrificial move. We see move countering move, the attempts to make the opponent make the wrong play, the disbelief when a great position evaporates. Always, Krabbé writes brilliantly about the opacities of decision-making. The hero cites Henri Pélissier’s impossible imperative: ‘Always attack as late as you can, but before the others do’.

You will all know that the Dutch love their cycling, and also, being an intelligent people, they love the literature in their language. This, charmingly, has precipitated the fictional ‘Tour de Mont Aiguoal’ into reality. The race that Krabbé invented now exists, at least as a cyclo-sportive, when hundreds of Dutch enthusiasts enact on the real roads the pages they read. Krabbé himself apparently had the salutary experience of realising that he was simply too overweight (at its first running) to attempt to ride the route on which he had imagined himself contesting a race win. He has since, got into good enough shape to participate in his own dream. This is nice, but in the end, has to be an instance of the reality being somehow more fictional than the utterly authentic fiction that inspired it: Krabbé’s brilliance dooms him to having been more of a road racer when writing a book than he could ever be when riding the roads in actuality.

How to Treat a Bee Sting on a Bike Ride

2005-04-09T09:16:00.002+05:30

Cycling is a great sport and the summer season is the best time of year to ride your bike. Out in the sunshine, wind blowing through your hair. Everything is going great until you collide with a bee or a wasp…they are small, but boy do they pack a punch. Actually, it’s more of a sting! Ouch! That’s right, you’ve just been stung. Now what?

A bee sting hurts, but most people are not allergic to them. For those who are allergic to bee or wasp stings, you should be sure that this is included in your medical history forms, and that your riding partners, teammates and coaches are aware of this before each ride. If you are allergic to bee stings then you need to be sure you have a medical plan in place and carry treatment in your riding kit. The allergic reactions associated with bee stings can vary depending on individual sensitivities and the location of the sting. If you are very sensitive or if a sting in a serious location like the mouth or the neck, could cause serious problems, then you need to be sure that you have an ‘epi-pen’ on hand. This should be in your seat pack and in your bike bag in the car as well.

What about those of you who aren’t allergic to bee stings, but you still just got stung. Now what? Well, there are lots of ‘urban remedies’ out there. I’ve heard of people using everything from ice, butter, alcohol and chewing tobacco for a bee sting. What works and what doesn’t? I went on-line to search out a strategy that you can use when out on the road.

Bees only sting once. This usually is fatal to the bee as the stinger has a large barb which catches in your skin and it removes the venom sack from the bee. Wasps can bite you multiple times. If you are stung while riding, then you need to carefully slow down and pull off at a safe place. Try not to ‘freak out’ and swerve into traffic or crash! I once had a yellow jacket fly into my unzipped jersey and it got me 5 times before I was able to work my way to a safe stopping spot!

First, if you’ve been stung, check to see if the stinger and venom sack are still in your skin. If so, then remove it as quickly as possible. The venom sack will continue to contract and pump venom into your skin. If you squeeze the sack while removing the stinger, this too can inject more venom. Best thing to do is quickly and carefully scrape the stinger up and away with something sharp, like the edge of a dollar bill, Clif Bar wrapper or even a sharp finger nail.

Next, if you have access, get some ice on it. This helps by reducing the circulation to the site and will help reduce the spread of the venom and the inflammation associated with the allergic reaction.

There are 2 types of remedies. Pharmaceutical/drug store items and home remedies. Of the drug store items Caladryl lotion and hydrocortisone cream tend to work best. Caladryl has both calamine lotion and bendryl medication to help control the inflammatory response associated with the allergic reaction caused by the venom. It tends to help with both the pain and the itch. The hydrocortisone cream acts similarly, but is a ‘cortisone’ based cream. Overall I’ve found the Caladryl cream to work best and is a great addition to the bike bag. The insect bite sticks, which tend to be topical anesthetics or alcohol based tend to work poorly. Caladryl also works well for mosquito bites and poison oak. Taking Benedryl medication pills can help if you have severe pain or swelling, but this medication tends to be sedating, which means it can make you sleepy, so you don’t want to take it while riding your bike. It is a good idea to have some Benadryl in your bike bag so if necessary you can take it after your ride.

There are many home remedies, but the home remedy that tends to work great if you don’t have access to a pharmaceutical creams, is toothpaste. The exact mechanism of how this works is unclear but it is likely secondary to its neutralizing properties, which helps counteract the acidic nature of the venom.

In summary, if you are allergic to bee or wasp stings, then be prepared. You will want to wear a tag that shows you are allergic, let your riding partners knows well ahead of time and be sure to carry an EpiPen that you can use in an emergency. Otherwise, once you are stung, don’t lose your concentration and carefully pull over to a safe location, then carefully remove the stinger and get some ice on it. It’s a good idea to get a small bottle of Caladryl for your bike bag and apply it as soon as possible. You should also be sure to check with your family doctor to ask if your allergic reactions to bee stings have any additional requirements.

USE YOUR HEAD (AND PROTECT IT!)

2005-03-07T20:26:00.001+05:30

Bicycle racing is a fun, exciting and very challenging sport. Crashes are rare, but they do happen. One of the most important parts of your cycling equipment is your helmet. Protecting your head and your brain is a very serious subject and although a bit scary to talk about, it’s important to be sure that we are all prepared to maximize our safety while training and racing.

Of course prevention of a crash is important and that of course is our primary goal. The next step is making sure you have a good helmet that fits you properly. A helmet should not be more than 2 years old. Regulations change over time as do manufacturing techniques. The materials used to absorb the impact of a fall degenerate over time so it is important to replace an old helmet. Also, you should replace your helmet after a crash if there is any sign of impact on the helmet.

Helmet fit is critical. I can’t tell you how often I see people riding bikes with helmets improperly fit. An improperly fit helmet is equivalent to not wearing a helmet. It is not enough to just hang your helmet off the back of your head and think its going to help you when you fall. Here are the important steps to be sure your helmet fits properly.

Size: The size of your helmet should be such that when placed on your head, without the straps, you should not be able to shake it off. If you can shake it off, it’s too big. If it doesn’t fit down over your head, it’s too small.

Straps: The straps of modern helmets have become easier to adjust, but most seem to still struggle with them. The straps should keep your helmet securely on your head and positioned properly, above your eye brows, but now so far back that your forehead is exposed. The chin strap should be snug, not chokingly snug, but snug enough to keep it in place when you need it.

Okay. So you’ve got your helmet securely in place and an accident happens and you go down. If you are knocked out or the person you are with is knocked out, it is a serious situation. Loss of consciousness, heavy or irregular breathing, the inability to talk or answer questions or loss of memory all signify an injury to the brain and warrant immediate medical attention. If someone falls hard enough to knock them out there is always the potential for a spinal cord injury, so be sure to keep the head and neck immobilized and call for an ambulance.

After a concussion, the rider should be evaluated at an emergency room and brought there by an ambulance. A doctor must evaluate the rider and often x-rays and a CT-Scan will be performed to be sure there is no bleeding into the brain.

The rider’s return to riding after a concussion always requires the close supervision of a physician, ideally a Sports Medicine Physician, with expertise in concussions. The risk of return to riding/racing too soon can be catastrophic and should never be taken lightly.

The moral of the story; ride safely, ALWAYS wear a properly fitted helmet, and seek immediate medical attention should you crash and get a concussion, returning to riding only under the supervision of a qualified physician.

How to renew the chain and sprockets on the Yamaha Thundercat

2005-02-09T09:15:00.000+05:30

You will need: good socket set, preferably half-inch drive, a torque wrench, a rear paddock stand, a good quality chain staking tool (you can hire these), an assistant (large).

First, buy your chain and sprockets. They are cheapest as a kit.

The chain type is 50ZVM, 108 links. DID and RK are both very good makes of chain. Chains should be O-ring or X-ring and come with a soft link that you rivet into place with a special tool. Avoid endless chains (you have to remove the swing arm to fit these) and chains joined with a spring clip, they are not safe.

JT sprockets are good and tough and Renthal make fancy coloured alloy ones if that’s your bag.

The standard gearing is 15 teeth at the front, 47 at the back. You can go down one tooth at the front to improve acceleration, or go up a couple at the back for a less drastic increase and better chain life.

Now to business. First you need to remove the front sprocket cover. Put the bike in neutral and remove the small pinch bolt that clamps the gear lever to its shaft and slide if off (there is a little dot to help you get it back in the right place). Remove the six allen-head bolts and pull off the sprocket cover. There is no need to detach the clutch cable. There is a paper gasket behind the cover. You can replace it or reuse it if you can salvage it, but you can get away without one at all.

The sprocket nut should have a tabbed lock-washer behind it, and you will need to bend the tabs out of the way before you can get your socket onto the nut. Ideally you would then use an impact wrench or air wrench to remove the nut. In the real world we don’t have such fancy tools and need a fat assistant instead.

Now get said rotund assistant to sit on the bike and press HARD on the back brake. This is to keep the wheel and chain still as you undo the sprocket nut. This nut will be very tight. If you can’t shift it try extending your wrench with a few feet of scaffold pole. Take care not to smash your knuckles. If it really won’t go, then admit defeat and get a dealer with an air wrench to remove it for you.

With the nut removed, simply slide the sprocket off the shaft, chain and all. Work the old sprocket out of the chain and stick in the new one. Replace the nut, and with your assistant still on the brake torque it up to 70 Nm (54 lbs-ft). If you have no torque wrench, do it up pretty damn tight, if this baby works loose things get ugly. Bend down the tabs on the lockwasher.

Next, the rear sprocket. You will need to remove the rear wheel to get to this. Loosen the rear axle nut slightly before putting the bike on the paddock stand. Slacken off both chain tension adjusters (in the ends of the swingarm). While supporting the weight of the wheel, remove the axle nut and pull out the axle. Lower the wheel to the ground and push the it forwards. Slip the chain off the sprocket and withdraw the wheel.

Undo the six nuts holding the sprocket onto the sprocket carrier, and change over the sprocket. This is easiest with the carrier still in the wheel. Torque up the nuts to 60 Nm (43 lbs-ft). While you are in there, pull off the carrier and check the cush drive rubbers and bearing are in good nick.

Refit the wheel, making sure one pad goes on each side of the disk. Put the axle back in but don’t tighten the nut yet.

Finally it’s time to change the chain. You can use your staking tool to split the old chain, but you risk damaging the nib and they are expensive. It’s better to use an angle grinder or a hacksaw to cut the old chain.

Now attach the new chain to the end of the old with some fine wire. Rotate the rear wheel to draw the new chain into place. Remove and discard the old chain.

Fit soft link into place to join the new chain, and use your staking tool to stake the rivets. They should be well peened over with a deep hole in the centre, but not so flat they crack or restrict movement of the link. If in any doubt get it checked at a garage. New links are only a fiver, but a broken chain can be very very ugly.

***Remember to grease the soft link with the grease provided before staking it ***

Finally, tension the new chain with the adjusters and torque up the rear axle nut to 117 Nm (90 lbs-ft) or very tight indeed. Give the front sprocket cover a quick clean out (with a spoon!?) and refit it. Reattach the gear lever.

That’s it!

How to change a bike tire tube and patch a tube.

2005-02-07T06:23:00.000+05:30

The flat, or puncture, is probably the most frequently encountered bike problem. It really is a very simple repair if the rider has the equipment available.

Tools for a flat: Patch kit, tire levers, pump, and wrenches if wheel has nuts on the axel.

While it is nice to know how to patch a tube, the last place that anyone wants to patch a tube is on a ride. Try to have each bicycle equipped with a small saddle bag that contains a extra tube and a set of tire irons.

With wrench remove the tire off the bike so it is workable.

Remove the wheel from the bike.
Remove the valve cap and the locknut; unscrew the round nut on the tube.
Push the valve body in and work one side of the tire into a deeper center of the rim
Put tire lever under the bead on the side that has been freed, at some distance from the valve, and then use it to lift the bead over the rim edge and hook it on a spoke.
Never use a screwdriver in place of a tire iron
When enough of the tire sidewall is lifted over the rim, you can remove the rest of the tire by hand.
Remove the tube, saving the valve until last. Push the valve out through the valve hole in the rim, while holding back the tire.
Try to inflate the tube with your pump to try and see where the air is leaking from. Hold tube up close to face and feel the air escaping.
Make sure the area around the hole is dry and clean, then roughen it with the sandpaper or the scraper from the patch kit, and remove the resulting dust. Treat an area slightly larger than the patch you want to use.
Quickly and evenly spread a thin film of rubber cement on the treated area. Let dry about three minutes in hot, dry weather, or longer in colder weather.
Apply patch with sticky side down, and apply pressure.
Sprinkle talc powder on the patch to prevent sticking to the tire.
Look around the inside of the tire to remove any objects that could have caused the puncture.
Put tire back on rim and inflate to manufacturers specifications.

How to renew the fork oil on the Yamaha Thundercat

2005-02-03T08:45:00.000+05:30

You will need: good socket set with hex bits, a torque wrench, a rear paddock stand, a small jack.

First, go out and buy a litre of good quality fork oil. 5W is specified, but some people prefer 10W for a stiffer feel, or mix your own 7.5W.

With the bike on its side stand, remove both halves of the front mudguard. Slightly loosen the fork caps, the front axle pinch bolt and the front axle. Unbolt both brake calipers and tie them out of the way. Slightly loosen the bottom yolk clamp bolts – these can just about be accessed from below with the fairing in place by turning the steering to the opposite lock. Finally loosen the top yolk clamp bolts slightly. You may need to displace the bar clip-ons to access these. Set the preload adjusters on minimum (fully out).

** Mark the front each fork tube with a bit of tape so you can get it back in exactly the same orientation **

Now raise the front wheel just off the deck. The easiest way is to use a rear paddock stand then lift the bike using a small jack under the down-pipes (no need to remove fairings). If your down-pipes are badly rotten you will need a front stand -- one that engages with the steering head, not the forks.

Unscrew the speedo cable, unscrew and pull out the axle and remove the front wheel. Note how the spacer and speedo drive fit.

Fully loosen off the top and bottom yolk clamp bolts, and the two smaller bolts that clamp the clip-on bars to the forks, and you should be able to drop each fork down out of the yolks and free of the bike. If they seem stuck, try twisting them first. You can use a flat-blade screwdriver to wedge open the yolk clamps, but take care not to scratch the fork tubes. Do NOT push them upwards as you will scratch the sliding area on the bottom yolk.

This is a good time to check the straightness of your fork tubes, using a straight edge such as a steel rule, or even better a dial gauge. More than 0.2mm runout is officially “bent” and you could have them straightened, but in practice even 1mm or so is fine provided you fit the forks back the right way (hence the tape).

Now the forks can be taken apart. First unscrew the cap assembly (beware there is some spring pressure on it). Release it from the damper rod by loosening the locknut and unscrewing it. Now you can withdraw the spring top washer and spring. Smells horrible, doesn’t it?

Hold the fork upside-down over an old container and gently pump it to drain out the old oil. It’s a good idea to leave it upside-down for a few hours to drain completely.

Meanwhile, measure the free length of the spring. It is 424.5mm as standard, if it’s dropped to less than 419.5mm it’s too short and you should consider replacing them. Slightly stiffer springs, such as Hagon’s progressive rate springs, can really improve the Cat’s front end.

Carefully measure 434ml of fresh fork oil and pour it in (421ml for 1996 bikes). Slowly pump the damper rod up and down until you can feel resistance all the way up the stroke. Now slowly pump the fork tube up and down, but by only three or four inches to distribute the oil.

Use a ruler to measure the air gap from the top of the fork tube to the oil surface with the fork fully compressed. It should be 124mm (137mm for 1996 bikes), if not add/remove a little oil.

Replace the spring, top washer and fork cap. Try to get exactly 12mm of threads showing on the damper rod below the locknut, and lock it. Screw on the fork cap but don’t try to tighten it yet.

Slide the forks back into the yolks, taking care to get them in the same orientation.

Pinch up but don’t fully tighten the top and bottom yolk clamp bolts, ensuring the forks are at the correct height. They are level with the top of the clip-ons as standard, but you can let them protrude up to 12mm to make the bike faster-steering.

Put the front wheel back on and pinch up the axle. The bike can now be lowered back to the ground.

Tighten everything up to the following torques settings:

Bottom yolk clamp bolts: 38 Nm / 28 ft-lbs
Top yolk clamp bolts: 30 Nm / 22 ft-lbs
Fork caps: 23 Nm / 17 ft-lbs
Clip-on clamp bolts: 13 Nm / 9.6 ft-lbs
Axle: 65 Nm / 48 ft-lbs
Axle pinch bolt: 20 Nm / 14 ft-lbs
Caliper mounting bolts: 40 Nm / 29 ft-lbs

Replace the calipers. If you have trouble getting the calipers back onto the disks, use a screwdriver to force the pads apart a bit first.

Reassemble the mudguard. Reattach the speedo cable. Reset your preload adjusters.

*** Pump the front brake lever until firm ***

That’s it!

Cycling as a power sport

2005-01-07T20:28:00.000+05:30

Many would refer to cycling as a power sport and therefore assume that strength was the most important aspect of the training programme. But the truth is there is more than one way to make a bike go fast. Strength is of little use if your pedal stroke is so inefficient that the power never makes it to the road and is lost in the dead spots of a dodgy pedalling style.

Position is another key element here as well. In order to be able to put productive power into the pedal stroke you need to be able to be in a position that is low enough to do that. Many triathletes set themselves far too high which causes two main problems. The first is hip rock caused by the hip being pulled to reach the down stroke and the second is the creation of a massive dead spot at the base of the pedal stroke.

Good time trailing depends on your ability to be able to push big gears at high revs and if you can't get your heal down into the base of the stroke you're going to lose yourself serious time. I don't want to go into bike setup here but this is a common problem with triathletes. You can sit forward without having to go into orbit to do it. A quick check is - if you can't pedal backwards with heals on your pedals without severe hip rock you' re probably too high.

To become an efficient pedaller takes some work but is very trainable so here's a few ideas you can implement to improve your efficiency.

Climbing: Go slow and concentrate hard on the pedal stroke even watch it as you're climbing. Keep it as smooth as possible and stay seated. There are very good reasons to go slow while climbing. When you go slow it keeps your heart rate lower but increases the strength benefit because there is no momentum pushing you up the hill. You can concentrate easily and be rock solid while climbing. Not moving the upper body just keeping good pressure the whole way round the pedal stroke. It is amazing how good technique while climbing slow crosses over to racing.

Efforts: Try incorporating some high rpm work into your training. This is best done on the turbo. Start with short reps until you can handle longer work periods such as 4x (10-15 mins) at 105+rpm but the key is to be perfectly still while you do it without bouncing. This takes time and practise but pays big dividends in efficiency and strength . A cadence of 90 rpm is then very easy to maintain while racing.
Try using a mirror while doing turbo sessions. It gives instant feedback on form enabling you to correct faults in your style and pedal stroke. good form = efficiency = speed.

Longer rides: Buy yourself a cadence meter and keep the revs up while riding longer distances - around 90 rpm or better. Lets say you go out for 3 hours at 75 rpm and your friend rides the 3 hours at 95 rpm. Your friend has just pedalled 4100 more pedal strokes than you and is quickly going to develop better efficiency and aerobic power than you. It's that simple.

Suggested local mountain bike rides at Stanford

2004-12-08T11:04:00.000+05:30

Random riding tip for all mountain bikers, every time:

If you see other trail users, give them a friendly hello and slow down when you pass them. A little goodwill between mountain bikers, hikers, and equestrians can go a long way towards keeping all the great trails around here open for everybody. Also, if there are horses, it's courteous to walk your bike past them.

Arastradero Preserve:

Home of the closest trails to campus, this preserve is great for beginning and intermediate riders. If you climb all the way to the top of the preserve (which isn't too far), you'll reach some pretty fun jumps and bowls to play around on. Directions: ~15-20 minute bike ride. Get onto Junipero Serra/Foothill Expressway, usually via Campus Drive. Take a left onto Junipero-Serra, follow that until you hit the big intersection with Page Mill. Take a right at that intersection and get onto Old Page Mill Road. Closed to cars = good. Follow that for a while, and it’ll eventually merge with Page Mill again. BE VERY CAREFUL when you merge and cross over a lane here - cars are coming down Page Mill really fast and turning right to get onto the highway. Keep going straight on Page Mill, go past one stop sign, and then take a right at Arastradero Road, which is the next stop sign. You'll see the preserve on your left after climbing up the road a little bit.

Windy Hill:

It's a hill, and it's very often windy. Go figure. Great for training rides, as riding up the hill is a pretty decent 20-30 minute climb. Once at the top, enjoy the awesome view before descending. Watch out for signs posted which say if bikes are allowed on certain trails - most singletrack trails are unfortunately closed to bikes. Also, keep a decent speed on the downhill and stay in control - hikers could be around some of the comers. Directions: ~20-25 min. bike ride. Get onto Junipero-Serra/Foothill Expressway, usually via Campus Drive. Take a right onto Junipero-Serra, then take a left at the light on Alpine. Follow Alpine for a while as it climbs gradually, then take a right onto Portola Road. After a mile or two you should see a sign for Windy Hill on your left.

Skegg's Point / El Corte de Madera Open Space Preserve:

The Stanford mountain biker's favorite place to ride. Once you ride here you'll understand. : preserve filled with beautiful singletrack through the redwoods, some challenging technical sections, ler climbs. Awesome stuff. Directions: 25-30 minute drive. Get onto Junipero-Serra/Foothill Expressway, usually via Campus Drive. Take a right on Junipero Serra, veer right at the intersection with Sand Hill Road, and then take an immediate left on Sand Hill Road. Sand Hill will cross over Highway 280, and after going up and down some hills, keep your eye open for a right on Portola road. There will be a fork in the road shortly; take the left fork. You'll get to a T-intersection with 84, and you'll take a left there (which will really be more a u-turn -- it's a really sharp turn). Drive up 84, a nice windy mountain road, and you'll end up at the intersection with Skyline Blvd. Take a right onto Skyline, follow that a couple miles, and you'll see a big parking area on your right after a sign saying "Vista Point". Park there and the trailhead is 30 seconds down the road on the left.

BMX Park:

This is a really fun place to practice your dirt jumping skills.

Directions: ~15-20 min. bike ride. Get onto Galvez Street on campus, follow that and it'll turn into Embarcadero Road when you cross over El Camino. Go straight on Embarcadero all the way as it crosses over Highway 101, then take a left at the second light, which will be Geng Road. Go straight on Geng Road, past a parking lot and a baseball field. You'll see a wide trail/levee on your right. Follow that path a little ways, eventually you'll cross over a bridge and you'll want to double back on a similar path going the opposite direction on the other side of the creek. You'll see the park on your right.

IRONMAN TRAINING PITFALLS

2004-12-07T20:39:00.000+05:30

Thought it might an idea to cover some of the more contentious views of Ironman training and before we get started I would like to say the views that lie within this article are my views based on 11years of Ironman racing and everyone may not agree with them and that’s fine but these are things that I believe to be true about training. I have in the past found that people can get very heated about training ideas and this has always puzzled me a little because everyone is entitled to their point of view so with that in mind I’ll put in my 2 cents worth and hope that nobody takes offence.

What exactly is speed in reference to Ironman ?

It is in my view aerobic capacity –strength and efficiency that are the precursors to Ironman speed but I have had enormous trouble in the past getting people who have come to me for coaching to understand this. Many people will go to track twice a week in the search of speed trying to belt out fast 1km repeats in 3:15 etc, now if you look at even the sharp end of an Ironman the best runners will run around 2:50 average which is over 4min km’s, even a fast 3:03 marathon is still only 4:20 per km and most people are not going to do that so I can’t see how running a 3:15 on track reps is going to help you run a fast marathon except towards the end of an Ironman prep to sharpen fitness.

It would make more sense to me to work on increasing aerobic fitness by doing low intensity running and then working on increasing speed while running @ predicted Ironman pace via a heart rate monitor.

On the bike this is exactly the same scenario –I don’t know how many people I see doing 2 speed sessions a week on the bike @ threshold while training for Ironman –what gives? this in my opinion is the best way to teach your body how to blow up at the 100km of the race. After you have burnt through all the sugar your body has to burn the fat burning rate is going to be pretty ordinary. Most of the people who hammer threshold sets during the week also do their long rides at an intensity that it too high to stimulate aerobic fitness and too low to force threshold and in effect their long days out are junk sessions – I know this because I have seen the looks I get when out doing long base miles and having people tear past me and they look at you like your a joke but where are they on race day?

I can remember an article I read on the Germans in the early 90’s –at the time they were copping a fair amount of flack off the Americans for riding their long rides so slow (i.e.) 24 -25kph but they consistently had the fastest bike splits at all the major Ironmans around the world. Jurgen Zack was one of them. It really was a case of we will see.

One of the factors people fail to realize is that these guy’s may be riding slow but when they put the intensity into their training they can ride at high speed for low heart rates and burn a high amount of fat for fuel making them very efficient performers.

The question of mileage is another bone of contention and some will argue that if you are going to run 4hrs you should train to run 4hr’s. In my opinion all this does is teach people how to run 4hr’s with very bad form, in my experience I have found that most peoples run form starts to suffer at about 2hrs and goes rapidly downhill from 2:30 on. I think it’s better to build your runs up slowly maintaining good form –this way you are more likely to hold good form for longer in the race and this also avoids some of the pitfalls connected with running too many miles with not enough background.

Ironman training is not rocket science and it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that if you get to the line in good shape you have much better chance of racing well than if you’ve been flogging yourself for 3 months. Personally I ran a little experiment on myself a few years back running 90mins max in training for Ironman and I worked a few more miles on the bike
during each 90min run I ran easy working on form and 2 runs at Ironman pace of 50mins –this equated to 55-60km’s running per week and the result was a pb run split which made me realize how important it was to be able to run effectively without losing form, these days I keep all Ironman run preps to 2hrs max-this also allows for better recovery and a better ability to absorb the training that you are doing instead of just surviving it which is what a lot of athletes tend to try and do. The old adage is true –better to be 10% under trained than 1% over trained.

Another problem with Ironman training is that athlete’s tend to be social lot wanting to train together and it only takes a few antagonists to get the testosterone flying and the next thing you know you have a wasted training session that has been devoted to someone else’s agenda or ego if this happens a lot then you end up with a hell of a lot of junk training on your hands and sub par race result because the best of you has been let behind on a training ride you did trying to hammer your mates into oblivion –if this is you ask yourself what you really want from the race and your training because it’s fine to do this if you are willing to take what you get on race day but it is a little bit senseless if you are browned off at not doing a pb after the fact.

If you train with short course athletes be careful because Ironman is a completely different ballgame. Another little trap is to believe that a half Ironman result means you are on track for a great Ironman and this is a popular misconception as again an Ironman is not even remotely like a half Ironman as you have double the time to blow up if you have been doing the wrong type of work. If you are not an effective aerobic athlete the Ironman will find you out.

Here are a few pieces of advice that I believe are the most important in closing-

Do your thing not someone elses.
Train to maximise aerobic speed and strength first and foremost.
Don’t train in the junk zone.
If your looking to improve Ironman speed you won’t do it by training above threshold on the track etc.
Don’t overdo mileage and leave your best on the training routes.
Taper effectively and trust in what you’ve done because the last 2 weeks is too late.

Safety Tips for the Biker

2004-08-23T15:05:00.000+05:30

No matter what type of motorcycle you ride, almost everyone falls off sooner or later and good protective riding gear can help prevent or reduce injuries.

Protective gear is most effective in simple falls and slides on the road. However there is a limit to what protective clothing can do. If you get hit by a car, or collide with a solid object, nothing you wear will protect you from the energy of the impact but it may help minimise some injuries and ensure a faster recovery. Inflatable jackets show some promise but have not as yet been adequately validated to be able to recommend them. Manufacturers now offer a wide range of protective riding gear for men and women of all shapes and sizes in different designs and colours. With all this highly specialised and often expensive gear available how can a rider tell what is fashion and what is genuine safety equipment? Most retailers of protective gear carry a wide range of brands and usually offer a number of options to suit most budgets. They will also advise what protection the particular item offers.

You cannot tell how well a product will perform in a crash just by looking at it in the shop. However, there are some design and construction features that help to identify the gear that is more likely to do the job.

Textiles or traditional leather?
Most people will say leather, but either type has its place. Product tests have shown that even gear made from the best, most expensive material is only as good as its construction. Seams and fastenings shouldn't burst open and impact protectors need to stay in place. Double seams are usually the best as they resist bursting when the worst happens. Unlined denim offers very little protection. Fasteners must be secure - Velcro for sleeve closures, for instance, can be torn open in a crash and the sleeve of the jacket can be pushed up the arm, exposing you to injury.

Design is important

There are a number of design features to consider. Make sure vulnerable areas such as shoulders, elbows, back, knuckles, fingers, knees, backside, ankles and toes are protected. Not wearing gloves, which applies to a large number of motorcycle riders, results in some of the worst injuries. When crashing people instinctively put their hands out to try and soften the fall which can result in fingers being amputated or skin worn away, severely reducing hand function. Don't spend all of your money on the helmet. Your protection budget should also include the purchase of boots, gloves, pants and a jacket to help you keep on riding in safety and comfort.

Helmets

All helmets have to pass the Standard and everyone has a different head shape. It is recommended you try on a range of different brands to see which one fits your head shape best. The difference in cost may be buying you comfort or fashion but not necessarily more protection in a crash. Helmets do require a lot of care to keep them in the best possible condition. A guide is when you put it on the ground, rest it on your gloves. Don't sit it on the mirror, as this may dent and damage the interior helmet lining and it can fall off onto the hard road surface. Don't rest it on the bike seat where it can get blown off by wind or passing cars/trucks. Use the helmet hooks under the seat. These are provided on most bikes to secure it from falling as well as from theft. Invest in a helmet bag made of protective material if you don't get one with the helmet.

Keeping your visor clean and scratch free is also essential. Protect it from scratches by keeping it in a soft
cloth bag. Clean your helmet and visor with a quality helmet cleaning agent from a motorcycle store or dishwashing liquid and water. Rinse well and only use a soft cloth. Even soft brushes can scratch the visor.

Painting or adding decoration to your helmet is not a good idea. The strength of some materials used in helmet shells can be weakened by the solvents in paints and in some glue, (eg stickers). Most of all look after your helmet the way you want it to look after you.

If your helmet sustains a serious impact it needs to be replaced

Common sense tells you if you drop your helmet or it falls off your bike (stationary), then there's little chance of damaging the outer shell which protects against abrasion and puncturing, or the inner shell which absorbs energy on impact. However, if you throw your helmet against a wall or down the road with some force you could damage the outer shell and affect the helmet's ability to protect you. You can buy helmets that range from $100 to over $1000. Generally the more expensive helmets are lighter, which make them more comfortable to wear for long periods. Helmets are full or open face or flip front in plain colours, designs and race replicas. As they all must pass the standard you will be buying a helmet to suit your budget and the style you prefer. Flip front helmets can be easier if wearing glasses. Cooling is important with certain climates and some helmets have large scoops and holes in the helmet providing extra ventilation - just be aware those gaps increase noise levels. How the helmet fits can't be stressed enough and a poor fitting helmet will increase your chances of severe injury. Try on a large number of brands and styles. If unsure, seek advice from the sales representative.

Correct helmet fit

lightly pushes in the cheeks
fits snugly over most of the head
doesn't move around on the head
doesn't place pressure on the forehead
can't be pulled off under any conditions with the strap adjusted firmly.
Keep it on for 5 or 10 minutes before you buy, to be sure it is comfortable.

Jackets
The type of riding you do will influence your choice of jacket. Many riders have a couple of jackets to suit most weather conditions. Leather usually offers the best protection but may not suit if riding in the rain, when a textile jacket with waterproof capabilities may be more suitable. Protection points such as inserts to the shoulders and elbows are most common in all types of jackets on the market. Back protectors offer a higher level of protection but are not seen in most jackets and are sold as a separate item (see body armour).

Gloves
A large range of gloves are available from plain leather or textile gloves to full race gloves made from kangaroo skins. Summer, winter, intermediate and waterproof gloves are available. It is recommended you have a pair of summer and winter gloves because if your hands are comfortable they are less likely to become numb from the cold and lose the feel of the controls.

Pants
Choose from leather or textile pants or denim jeans containing Kevlar inserts. If you buy a leather jacket and buy the same brand leather pants, most zip together offering further protection, although any option whether it be leather, textile or reinforced denim, is an excellent choice.

Boots
The most important factor when purchasing a pair of boots for motorcycling is that they cover above the ankle area. More expensive boots have better protection to reduce the risk of twisting an ankle. Again it depends on the type of riding you do as to what type of boot you buy. There are a number of waterproof boots available.

One Piece Suits
One piece race suits offer the best overall protection, but do not suit a lot of riding types, as they can take some time to get on and can be impractical depending on where you are going. When trying on a one piece suit, wear it for some time and move around in a riding position. Most brands have protection points in different places and will suit different body types. Handmade one piece suits will provide more comfort.

Body Armour
Body armour offers a higher level of safety by enhancing other protective gear. A back protector looks after the spine and back area in a fall. Various brands and sizes are available, so try a few to see which one is comfortable. Full vests, knee guards, under shorts and various types of knee sliders provide added safety and comfort.

Most importantly when riding a motorcycle, even just down to the shops, always wear protective riding gear and save yourself from the risk of suffering a severe injury.

MOUNTAIN BIKING IN BHUTAN

2004-08-06T11:02:00.000+05:30

Want to turn heads in Bhutan?

Try whizzing past locals on a State Of The Art Mountain Bike and you’ll realise that Mountain Biking is a relatively new phenomenon in this rugged Buddhist kingdom.

Few people ride mountain bikes in Bhutan. Maybe it’s the rugged terrain or that the mandatory dress (Gho /Kira) is not conducive to bike riding. But the experience is nothing short of exhilarating. Bhutan has some of the best places in the world to cycle.

There are plenty of good reasons to Mountain Bike in Bhutan

o Bhutan has immense areas of undisturbed nature and even cycling along its “highways” one sees a lot of it.
o The views are often stunning, but you are advised to stop before you look.
o The climate in spring and autumn is quite pleasant for cycling,
o None of the main roads are very steep. The steepest gradients are around 7%,
o Out of the urban areas there is little traffic.

The best way to start Mountain Biking in Bhutan is on the tarmac roads. Leave the cars, trucks and exhaust fumes behind and follow the journey of the rivers. From the capital Thimphu the road winds gently up the valley following the beautiful Thimphu River /Chu. As you pass through the small settlements of Taba and Denchencholing there is no shortage of kids to cheer you on, give you a high five and low 5 as you ride past, or a push up the hill if you’re lucky!

The road climbs high above the river, gently winding its way up the valley past farm houses and through the settlement of Begana where we stopped to visit friends, have a well earned break, and see what produce was for sale.

The valley starts to narrow and the Thimphu Chu becomes a rushing torrent of beautiful translucent green. Glimpses of river are seen below as the road takes you past a few side streams and a large rock mural of Guru Rinpoche who first brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 7th century.

Across a traditional Bailey bridge, the road swings left, following the river as the valley narrows further. A gentle climb leads through forests of oak and rhododendron with views of delightful picnic spots below.

The road ends at Dodena with a welcome drink stop. A short walk across a covered cantilever bridge leads to a chorten and a popular picnic spot.

Before the road ends a tarmac road to the right winds it way up to a view of Tango Goempa (monastery) high above. A walk up to this picturesque three-story monastery takes about an hour. A permit is required to enter the Llakhang or temple, which your guide can arrange.

Riding back down the valley is nothing short of exhilarating. Clean fresh air fills your lungs, white puffy clouds hang suspended over tall craggy ridges, with a backdrop of triangular snow capped peaks at the head of the valley. Its tempting to go flat out but its best to keep your speed at a controllable level, so go for slow, or relatively slow that way you can catch glimpses of the passing scenery as well.

Biking the trails and tracks

Mountain biking on the trails and tracks is very different in Bhutan.
Not only is it fun to do but the scenery is fantastic. Even little rest stops next to a group of prayer flags or a chorten is special. For those who are faint hearted the main tarmac roads around Thimphu and its valley provide ample enjoyment, but if you are a little mad, plain stupid or get duped into doing something with friends, then the trails up into the mountains and ridges are the go. Be prepared for some huffing and puffing as you carry your bike along some of the old trading routes. There are some forestry roads that provide relatively easy access up, but even these can be a lung-busting event if you are not acclimatised to the altitude. You generally need at least one week to get acclimatised to the altitude (Thimphu is about 2300 m above sea level).

Once heading uphill on the trails you often meet locals coming down and all are interested and bewildered by what you are doing and more importantly “Where are you going?” Locals are always very friendly and full of good information about which trails to follow, which is fortunate as there is a plethora of trails and tracks to follow (or more importantly – not to follow). Actually, most villagers assume that you are lost if are carrying a bike up a small trail, and they may try to show you the shortest way to a tarmac road, which is often where you just came from.

Most of the forests around Thimphu and in the surrounding country are grazed by cows and the higher pastures (above 3000m) by yaks in winter. Yak meadows often provide an excellent spot for a lunch stop and provide fantastic views. You may be lucky and see a couple of yaks but stay clear of them, they have vicious horns. Sometimes a yak herder’s dog may also hassle you but a squirt with the drink bottle or threaten to throw a stone and they stay clear, often barking until you are far away.

As you climb up, the vegetation changes from the pine forests and oaks on the lower slopes, to rhododendron forests with hemlock, fir and juniper. Then the long awaited downhill sections arrive. Some can be bone jarring shaking rocky paths. Others can be exhilarating windy runs. On one ride, we ended up on the main highway near Dochula pass (3400m) and had a great ride back to the capital along the tarmac. It was on a Sunday afternoon and there wasn’t much traffic. Due to the windy roads, most cars travel about 30km per hour and on a bike you can often catch and pass them. Drivers and passengers give you plenty of encouragement and often pull over to allow you to pass.

One of the must dos for those interested and who love long downhill runs is the descent from Chele La (the highest road pass at almost 3800m in Bhutan) down to the bridge just south of Paro. It’s a fantastic run. From the high pass on clear days you get views of the greater Himalayas including Mount Chomalari. Then it’s a windy paved road downhill for 35km, dropping from nearly 3800m at the pass to 2230m down in the Paro valley. There is hardly any traffic and the descent is not too steep or dangerous, we took it easy and averaged about 35km/hr on the downhill taking just over an hour to do the run. At one time going past a yak meadow we had to yell out to some young yaks to “get out the way!” – I don’t think they had ever seen mountain bikers before and looked very startled!

There are plenty of great views, one which sticks in the mind is the view through the tall cedars looking up to a distant nunnery perched halfway up a cliff.

How to develop better aerobic capacity

2004-05-09T08:41:00.000+05:30

Capacity to run/bike faster at lower h/rates -this is very trainable but needs patience - it's worth it. What we are after is to develop things like your long runs so that you can run quite solid at low h/rate-here's an example - when I started training with this method in about 94' I couldn't run much faster than 5.5min+ klms at 135bpm, I got it down by breaking my long runs into 30 min segments and concentrating on being as efficient as possible, over time I got that down to 4.5 min km's at 125bpm. What this means is my whole aerobic system improved even at higher rates. I personally used to test MAF (max aerobic function) every 4 weeks and that was 5km's on the track at aerobic max h/rate=mid E2B for me that was 153bpm I got that down to 18mins and it was all because of the long runs at low h/rate and working purely on the efficiency of that run.

The year I did this I went onto set pb's all over the place 75mins for half ironman run, Olympic distance pb's, Ironman pb, Ironman run pb -I felt like I had found a secret weapon. I went on to get tested at the academy of sport because I wanted to see what the work had done for my top end. I was worried about losing the top end (short course form) from all the aerobic training, It was the full v02 and I was very surprised to find that threshold was at 95% of my max h/rate and I hadn't done one single threshold session all season. -my lactates were super low at high workloads and that convinced me I was on the right track.

This method of training can be hard to do but and you need to be able to focus and work on the efficiency side and know it's doing you good. If you break it down that way you will see the results.

In my case the bike was always a limiting factor for me. I have a very short trochanter for someone my height and biking was always a problem for me. During 1994 I was lucky enough to meet two national cycling champs who lived in my area Jonathon Hall and Tony Gaudry, Jono agreed to help me out bike wise and took me from my hammering ways and made me do all my bike miles at <115bpm -it drove me crazy and I nearly lost it and spat the dummy. I ran into Tony Gaudry who was the national road champ at the time and I couldn't believe how slow he did his miles like 25kph and Tony was in my ear like nothing else about how important the aerobic component and specific strength bike training was for big results. That was the first year I rode well enough to race Ironman and went from 5:09 to 4:53 in one hit nothing flash but good for me . The same year I went from 3:20 marathons down to 3:05s and less, straight from 9:15 to 8:50. I can't tell you how slow I was running on my long runs because it was a deadset joke at that stage. But the proof was in the pudding and I had my first top 10 at Ironman and it was due to the increased aerobic component of my training programme and the shear quality of the strength training I was doing. Not so much a change of training mileage as a change of focus. It shaped me as an athlete and has had a profound effect on my coaching.

It is, in my view, aerobic capacity, strength and efficiency that are the precursors to long course speed. Many people will go to track twice a week in the search of speed trying to belt out fast 1km repeats in 3:15 etc, now if you look at even the sharp end of an Long course the best runners will run around the 4min km mark even a fast 3:03 marathon is still only 4:20 per km and most people are not going to do that so I can’t see how running a 3:15 on track reps is going to help you run a fast marathon.It makes more sense to me to work on increasing aerobic fitness by doing low intensity running and then working on increasing your race pace while running @ predicted Ironman pace via a heart rate monitor and perceived effort and working on hills to increase pure strength.

On the bike this is exactly the same scenario - A lot of people I see doing 2 speed sessions a week on the bike @ threshold even at relatively early stages of the training programme. This, in my opinion, is the best way to teach your body how to blow up at the 80km stage of the race. After you have burnt through all the sugar your body has to burn, the fat burning rate is going to be pretty ordinary. Most of the people who hammer threshold sets during the week also do their long rides and SE sessions at an intensity that it too high to stimulate aerobic adaption / fitness and too low to force threshold. If you have begun to climb a hill for instance, but are maintaining a constant cadence, you have begun to increase your power output. You are now pushing harder on the pedals and will feel this increased pressure on the soles of your feet. Therefore, pay attention to your feet and shift down through the gears as you feel this pressure (power spike) increase. Your goal is keep a constant pressure on the soles of your feet as you transition from the flat to the entrance of the hill and as it get steeper. Settle in and expect your heart rate to rise to your target heart rate that is set. If you have avoided the spike at the entrance, you should stay at or below your target heart rate, too many people attack hill reps and don't get the right benefit - riding at a power and h/rate that is too unrealastic for what you would race.

I can remember an article I read on the Germans in the early 90’s. At the time they were copping a fair amount of flack off the Americans for riding their long rides so slow (i.e.) 24 -25kph but they consistently had the fastest bike splits at all the major Ironmans around the world. One of the factors people fail to realize is that when they put the intensity into their training they can ride at high speed for low heart rates, making them very efficient performers. The faster you can ride or run at aerobic levels the faster you will race a long course or Ironman. The bike is about aerobic capacity and FORCE - force is best trained by working at low cadence 55-65rpm -this is the reason we set the mix we do - aerobic strength followed by E3 strength followed by race pace, people can blab on about how important speed work is until the cows come home but the fact is we have the data through the lab to support the theory - In nearly all cases our best Ironman results have come from those with the greater strength phase behind them - the longer it is the better the results. Speed and race pace work bring things to head very quickly (ie) in around 5 weeks -any further than that and the returns begin to diminish.

In my opionion the biggest single factor that destroys IM preps is that they either make them too long or they train too fast to create good aerobic force and do their miles too fast to create an effective aerobic capacity. The miles that are done around the Strength or Force work must be easy enough for the athlete to develop power through those sessions - if it's too fast the strength / force work will suffer and not be efficient. The same applies in the speed and race pace phase - the aerobic sessions must be easy enough for you to be able to move to another level during efforts and have the quality of those sessions at a high level (ie)-

NO QUALITY = NO GAIN -

What I am trying to say is that If you train solid during your easy miles then you quality intervals won't have any quality -what then happens is that you reach what we call the grey zone - nothing is improving -training too fast to improve aerobic capacity - training too slow during quality to improve speed, you in effect have no other gear to go to during a race, in other words you will race the same speed you train at. This was a philolosphy that I always took into my personal races -and to be honest sometimes I don't know where the results I got came from (ie) couldn't swim 46-48 mins for 3.8km's to save myself in training but it materialised on race day and certainly the same could be said for the bike - I could at times race way above what I was capable of in training. I couldn't run track to save my own life but I managed to spit out 32min 10km fun runs on a regular basis and no I wasn't a great athlete but I did find that to go to another level in racing I had to make sure that I had another level to go to during quality sessions and those sessions had to have ultimate efficiency in them - if it got sloppy I it slowed down. I know of people that I trained with maintaining higher h/rates on easy sessions that they could doing intervals -they'd put all sorts on me during training but were nowhere when it counted.

I know there are people out there who can belt themselves stupid and get results - they are what I call the bomb proofs, but they are a minority and they are the people that all sporting organisations look for, in my opinion to the determent of too many athletes along the way. I've never been a fan of the 12 egg theories that a lot of coaches and organisations use (ie) If you throw 12 eggs against a wall 11 will break one will not -there is your champion - that's not good coaching, to me that's pure dumb luck but there are other options in my opinion that give better all round results and allow people to stay in sport longer. "Woops" sorry soap box!
The question of run mileage is another bone of contention and some will argue that if you are going to run 4hrs you should train to run 4hrs. In my opinion all this does is teach people how to run 4hrs with very bad form, in my experience I have found that most peoples run form starts to suffer at about 2hrs and goes rapidly downhill from 2:30 on. I think it’s better to build your runs up slowly maintaining good form -this way you are more likely to hold good form for longer in the race and this also avoids some of the pitfalls connected with running too many miles with not enough background, splitting runs is also a very good way of increasing your mileage without the pounding.

Long course training is not rocket science and it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that if you get to the line in good shape you have much better chance of racing well than if you’ve been flogging yourself for 3 months. These days I keep all our Ironman run preps to 2hrs max-this also allows for better recovery and a better ability to absorb and adapt to the training that you are doing, instead of just surviving it. The old adage is true -better to be 10% under trained than 1% over trained.

One other point that I think I need to cover is the hurt locker - don't think that because you've done all the training that it won't hurt - no matter how fit and how fast even if you are world champ! - "oh god it's going to hurt" please don't be silly enough to think it won't. Too many people I've seen over the last few years have been either too scared or unpreparded to hurt. If you have done the training you should lay it all on the line and be prepared to hurt - no result regardless of how good your prep has been will come if you don't hurt for it.

Here are a few pieces of advice that I believe are the most important in closing-
*Do your thing not someone elses.
*Train to maximise aerobic speed and strength / force first and foremost.
*Don’t train in the grey zone during long sessions - not hard / not easy =grey zone
*If you're looking to improve Long Course speed you won’t do it by training above threshold.
*Don’t overdo mileage and leave your best on the training routes.
*Taper effectively and trust / be confident in what you are doing / following.
*Prepare yourself mentally to hurt in the race.
*The last 6 weeks is too late to make up training losses so If it's less than perfect just stay consisent, don't try to cram as it won't work.

If you are underdone on the day -it's better to be underdone and fresh than underdone and tired from trying to make up mileage at the back of the preparation.

Cycle cadence and the effect on run splits

2004-03-09T08:53:00.000+05:30

Pedal efficiency and cadence are the 2 most important factors that need to be considered by triathletes who are looking to improve their bike splits and even run splits for that matter. It is a subject that many people often mention and one that many new triathletes have difficulty with, especially those who don’t have a cycle background.

Some of the questions that come up are:

Should I use the same cadence for a short course as a long course?

Does body type have an influence on cadence?

Am I a big gear pusher?

Should I be pedalling higher cadences?

I have stood by and listened to some hard arguing on what is the ideal cadence for a triathlete. Many believing that triathletes are timetrialists so should push a big gear. I personally agree with road cyclists and think that efficiency is very important to ride well, and to then be able to run well. Bike set-ups and training programmes differ greatly between the two sports but the efficiency of pedalling must be the end result.

A higher cadence will flush the lactate from the legs and put less stress on the large muscle groups. The problem with high cadence is that it is less efficient in terms of the overall oxygen consumption and this is a consideration that you need to make if you are going to be doing longer events.

Usually a cadence of around 85-90rpm seems to be optimal for long course or Ironman while about 95-100rpm, in my opinion, is the optimum for short course (sprint or Olympic distance). Due to the fact it seems to have less adverse effects on the running muscles, it would seem that a higher cadence on the bike would translate into faster run splits once your feet hit the tarmac. Pushing bigger gears in a short course race @ low rpm say around 70-75rpm is going to make running fast off the bike a more difficult prospect and, in the competitive climate that is triathlon these days, you can’t afford to use the first few kms of your run trying to loosen up from pushing monster gears. You’ll end up 500m off the pace before you even get to the 2km mark.

So with this mind here are a few tips to get you using your cadences more effectively throughout your season:

BASE WORK:

In the base phase you are looking to use a cadence that allows you to develop good aerobic efficiency and oxygen carrying capacity. On the flats that would be a cadence of around 95-100rpm at all times in easy gears. On long or steeper climbs that would be 75rpm or on a lesser gradient around 85rpm.

STRENGTH PHASE:

This phase would be best served by doing interval reps, on a slight incline, in the aero position, twice a week for instance @ 60-65rpm, turning a big gear as smoothly as possible without rocking. On your longer aerobic rides dial the cadence back to 90rpm for the flat, and 55-65rpm for big climbs, staying in the saddle for the most part and trying to develop strength through your glutes, while again keeping the upper body as still as possible. Most of the work done in this phase should be aerobic.

SPEED PHASE:

In the last of the phases integrate some high cadence effort sessions @ threshold, again twice a week say 5x4mins @ 105-100rpm, this brings up the top end and develops your V02 oxygen uptake. You can also use pedal skills sessions where you are using short reps with long recovery’s @ very high cadences around 120-130rpm. These should be done in easy gears and not be too taxing on your energy system. They are A/Lactic efforts. The rep should only be around 20-30seconds. Not enough time for the heart rate to get too high.

During your aerobic sessions in this phase, pedal at around 90-95rpm and, by this stage of the programme, it should be a very comfortable cadence for long periods of time.

BIKE SETUP EFFECT ON CADENCE:

If you have a serious problem getting to or maintaining high cadences, it might be a worthwhile option to have your bike position, with respect to saddle height, reviewed. Sometimes people who have their saddle too high will have difficulty maintaining cadence or staying on top of the pedal stroke. This is a problem that seems to affect triathletes quite a bit as they have a tendency to set their saddle position very high. I know what you’re thinking I’ve seen those articles on power outcomes being best at the higher end of the seat scale as well. The problem with them is that they don’t measure the efficiency of running after sitting at that height. There’s no point in riding like the wind if you are going to run like a pigmy with the seat post stuck up his butt.

There are some very good training and efficiency tools around now and I think one of the best is the Computrainer. It allows you to try different positions and measure their power against efficiency via a spin cam monitor. You can find the position which gives you the most efficient pedal stroke. This always seems to be at a saddle height that allows you to drop your heals somewhat. The higher positions show up less efficient, in my experience, with this equipment.

XC Trail Bikes

2004-03-07T20:09:00.000+05:30

Often called all-purpose, XC Trail bikes are what most people think of when they hear the phrase “mountain bike”.

XC Trail bikes are designed to climb with control and comfort and descend with speed. With active suspension, knobby tires and low gearing the XC trail bike is slightly less efficient than an XC Racing bike but can be more enjoyable to ride downhill. As terrain gets steeper, trails tend to get rockier and the ultra-light XC Racing bike may ride roughly, but the XC Trail bike is right at home.

If you like the idea of challenging yourself on a rocky climb, enjoy extended singletrack descents and want to battle it out with your friends going uphill or down, An XC Trail bike may be for you.

XC Racing Bikes

2004-03-06T20:11:00.000+05:30

Often called Cross Country bikes, XC Racing bikes are designed to tackle a mountain from the bottom. Lightweight and efficient, XC bikes often sacrifice comfort and control as luxuries you can’t afford when racing to the top.

XC bike frames are either hardtail or short travel, semi-active suspension designs. Long and low, XC bikes put the rider in a stretched out position. Best suited to gradual terrain, XC racing bikes are popular in areas without a lot of rocks and roots and among competitive riders.

If your idea of mountain biking is fitness and endurance you may want to consider a XC Racing bike. If you consider the best rider the one who made it to the top first, then your choice is made.

How do I choose an MTB?

2004-03-05T20:13:00.000+05:30

Because riding styles and equipment have evolved to suit different terrain, deciding which bicycle is right for you will be easier if you know what type of terrain you intend to ride.

A common misconception is that a new rider needs more suspension because of the added control. While the added suspension may instill confidence in some technical sections, often time the relaxed geometry is not suited to less experienced riders.

On the other hand, it is just as hard to avoid the temptation of the ultra-light bike. The benefits of light weight are undeniable, but a novice rider will find XC racing bikes can be difficult to control when the trail gets rough.

How to Select a Bicycle

2004-03-05T08:52:00.000+05:30

How many of you went to the bike shop with your parents to pick out a bike? How many of you were able to test ride your bike? Did any of you get fitted for your bike while you were there? Today we will be talking about proper fitting of your bike. We are going to start off by talking about frame size, saddle position, and stem length.

Now what we are going to be talking about is vertical frame size or stand over height of the bike. Stand straddling the bike but do not sit on the saddle. Do you have 1 to 3 inches of space between you and the top tube? (crotch). There should be one inch of clearance between the tope tube and you if you have a road bike style, and three inches if you have a mountain bike style. If you have a slanted top tube or step through frame then measure from bottom bracket tube center (where the cranks are) to the top of the seat tube (the place where the seat tube and saddle slide into the frame). The proper size should be 10 to 12 inches shorter than the inseam to the floor without shoes.

Now let’s talk about the saddle or seat. The seat should first be parallel to the ground. Once you are on the saddle, place your heel on the bottom pedal (R or L) and push the pedal to the 12 and 6 o’clock position. If the leg is in a straight line without bending this is correct. If you are reaching by shifting to one side, the seat must be lowered. If the leg is bent then the saddle must be raised. Ensure that the heel is on the pedal not the toes for this measurement! Proper fit of the saddle will reduce stress on knee and increase power stroke while pedaling.

Now the final step in fitting your bike and that is horizontal bike fitting. This has to do with upper body potion when leaning over on the bike and touching the handle bars or the reach. This is very important because this has to do with control of the bike and most of your comfort. Swapping of stems works only if the stem is easily removable. Many stems have two bolts on front to tighten the handlebar down. Many only have one. Swapping the stem when there is only one bolt is best not performed as it requires the removal of grips, shifter, brake lever, and possibly cables. If there is a student who has unusually long arms, a swapping of the stem may be necessary, but look for a bike that has a long stem already in place. The vast majority of the time swapping of a stem to improve rider position is not going to be necessary.

Place elbow at the front of saddle with forearm pointing towards the stem and handle bars. If the finger tips are more than two to four fingers width away from the center of the handle bars then the stem should be replaced for a shorter one. This measurement works for mountain bike styles. If the stem is a little off the seat can be moved forward or backwards for micro adjustments on the rails under the saddle. There also should be measure lines that tell you how far not to go on the rails.

For drop bar/ road bike styles use the in saddle method. This requires the hands and arms to be at a relaxed bend when the hands are on the break drops/ hoods. If the length is too long this will cause stiffness in the arms and shoulders, plus put unwanted pressure to the saddle area of the body.Ideally you will want a 45 degree bend at the waist.

Biking Safely on Multi-use Trails

2004-02-28T22:12:00.000+05:30

Although riding on trails eliminates the danger of sharing the road with motorized vehicles they present their own safety challenges – particularly multi-use trails. Bikers frequently stop without warning and walkers can step in front of you. The following tips can prevent an accident from happening.

Ø Ride single file on the right.

Ø Ride at a speed that allows sufficient time to react to unexpected actions by people in front of you.

Ø Warn people ahead of you that you are passing with a bell or a pleasant “on your left”.

Ø Use a mirror.

Ø If you have to stop, signal those behind you with a hand signal or call out “stopping”, then pull completely off the trail.

Ø Signal turns.

Ø Keeps your eyes on the trail surface watching for holes, bumps, branches, etc.

Ø Use lights at night for safety and to follow the law.

Ø Slow down for blind curves to allow sufficient stopping time.

Ø Always stop for road crossings, don’t trust that traffic will stop for you.

Ø Read and obey all trail, traffic, and safety signs. When on roadways all traffic signs apply the same to bikers as motorized vehicles.

Ø Be careful not to startle horses on shared or adjacent trails. Let them know in a quiet manner that you are there.

Ø Wear a helmet regardless of where you are biking. Helmets are required for all North Star rides.

Ø Always ride in a predictable manner.

Non-singletrack trail grades

2004-02-23T20:54:00.000+05:30

Orange - extreme: downhill (DH) trails, dirt jumps and freeride areas

Bike parks are suitable for: riders aspiring to an elite level of technical ability; incorporates everything from full on downhill riding to 'big air' jumps.
Trail and surface types: severe constructed trails and/or natural features. All sections will be challenging. Includes extreme levels of exposure or risk. Jumping ability obligatory.
Gradients or technical trail features: will include a range of small, medium and large technical trail features, including downhill trails, freeride sections and mandatory jumps.
Suggested fitness level: a good standard of fitness is recommended but technical skills are more important.

Forest road and similar

Forest roads are suitable for: a wide range of cyclists.
Bike required: most bikes and mountain bike hybrids are suitable
Skills needed: basic map reading will be helpful for roads which are not waymarked or signposted
Trail and surface types: relatively flat and wide. The trail surface might be loose, uneven or muddy at times. These roads might be also be used by vehicles and others including horse riders and dog walkers.
Gradients and technical trail features: gradients can be very variable and might include short, steep sections. Occasional potholes might be present. Routes might not be waymarked or signposted.
Suggested fitness level: a good standard of fitness can help.

Mountain biking is a potentially hazardous activity carrying a significant risk. It should only be undertaken with a full understanding of all inherent risks. These guidelines must always be used in conjunction with the exercise of your own experience, intuition and careful judgment.

Cross country single-track trail grades

2004-02-22T20:51:00.000+05:30

Green grade - easy trails

Green grade trails are suitable for: beginners or novice cyclists.
Bike required: most bikes and mountain bike hybrids are suitable.
Skills needed: basic bike skills are required for this grade.
Trail and surface types: these will be relatively flat and wide. Trail surface might be loose, uneven or muddy at times. Might include short flowing singletrack-style sections. Some green routes can take trailers.
Gradients and technical trail features: climbs and descents are mostly shallow. No challenging features.
Suggested fitness level: suitable for most people in good health.

Blue grade - intermediate trails

Blue grade trails are suitable for: intermediate cyclists or mountain bikers with basic off-road riding skills.
Bike required: basic mountain bike or mountain bike hybrid.
Skills needed: basic off-road riding skills to cope with uneven surfaces and small obstacles.
Trail and surface types: as for 'green', plus specially constructed singletrack trails. Trail surface might include small obstacles of root and rock.
Gradients and technical trail features: most gradients are moderate but might include short steep sections. Includes small technical trail features (such as roots and rock).
Suggested fitness level: a good standard of fitness can help.

Red grade - difficult trails

Red grade trails are suitable for: proficient mountain bikers with good off-roading skills.
Bike required: quality off-road mountain bikes.
Skills needed: good off-roading skills and techniques to cope with technical trail features.
Trail and surface types: steeper and tougher, mostly singletrack with technical sections. Expect very variable surface types.
Gradients or technical trail features: a wide range of climbs and descents of a challenging nature will be present. Expect boardwalks, berms, large rocks, medium steps, drop-offs, cambers and water crossings.
Suggested fitness level: a higher level of fitness and stamina is required.

Black grade - severe trails

Black grade trails are suitable for: expert mountain bike users, used to physically demanding routes.
Bike required: a good quality off-road mountain bike is needed.
Skills needed: advanced level off-roading skills and technical ability.
Trail and surface types: as for 'red', but with an expectation of greater challenge and continuous difficulty. Can include any useable trail and might include exposed open hill sections.
Gradients or technical trail features: expect large, committing and unavoidable technical trail features. Sections will be challenging and variable. Might also have 'downhill' style sections.
Suggested fitness level: suitable for very active people used to prolonged effort.

Proper fit of a bicycle

2004-02-21T22:26:00.001+05:30

1. Stand straddling the bike. Both feet should be flat on the ground

If you are fitting for a road bike there should be one inch of space between the top tube and your crotch
If you are fitting for a mountain bike there should be around three inches of space between the top tube and your crotch

2. Lift the front of the bike off the ground until it touches you. The space between the tire and the ground should be the same.

One inch of space for a road bike
Three inches of clearance for a mountain bike

3. Make sure that saddle is level with the ground

4 Position crankarms so they are in the 6:00 and 12:00 positions

5. You will need at least two partners for this exercise. Sit on the saddle, place your feet on the pedals and have your partners support you from the side to keep you from toppling over, Place your heels on the pedals

If your leg that is on the pedal at the 6:00 position is bent, then you need to raise the saddle
If you can’t reach the pedal with your heel without rocking yourself on the saddle, then the saddle must be lowered

6. Loosen seatpost clamp by flipping quick release lever on seatpost binder bolt.

Raise or lower seatpost in small increments until you have it positioned correctly
Tighten the binder bolt and make sure that the saddle points straight ahead.

7. While seated on saddle, lean over and grab the grips on the handlebars

Your waist should be bent forward at about a 45 degree angle
If you feel that you are “reaching” then you will need a bike with a shorter stem: Try to find a bike with the same frame size with a shorter stem
If you feel that you are crowded then you will need a bike with a longer stem: Try to find a bike with the same size frame but with a longer stem

Safety Equipment for Bikers

2004-02-19T20:18:00.000+05:30

Many safety items can be improvised from other commonly carried objects in hiking or ski packs. Carrying these multi-use items can reduce pack weight and keep you prepared for many situations.

Ø Rigid stays in a backpack can be used as splints as can hiking or ski poles.

Ø Don’t leave home without duct tape. Carry it by wrapping it around a ski pole or around a small plastic bottle such as an empty pill bottle. Use the bottle to carry safety pins, needle and thread, etc. Duct tape can be used to tape splints to a victims body, tape a branch as a splint for a broken pole, tape a separated boot sole to the upper boot, or tape a boot to a broken ski or a broken binding.

Ø Pocket knife with an awl to make holes to tie things together.

Ø Parachute cord is almost as handy as duct tape. Use it to replace broken shoestrings or tie together components of a splint. If cord is used to tie a splint to an injured person, be sure it is properly padded to prevent cutting off circulation to the injured area.

Ø Closed-cell foam or self-inflating mattress can be used as a litter to carry an injured person, keep the person more comfortable, or insulate them from cold ground.

Ø Plastic cable ties are a fast and light-weight way to fasten items.

Ø Fluorescent flagging or surveyor’s tape can be used to mark your path if you need to leave an injured person to go for help. The tape will help you find your way back.

Ø Pencil and paper to draw a map, leave a note, or write instructions.

Ø A “Sam Splint” is a good item for longer and more isolated trips. The splint is a thin sheet of aluminum between two closed-cell pads. It can be bent to hold an arm or leg in any position creating a temporary cast. Place the blue side against the skin.

Ø Don’t forget the basics - toilet paper (or even more versatile - paper towels), plastic bags, weather proof matches and fire starter – wood shavings in wax work well or small pieces of a Duraflame log.

Mountain biking trail grades

2004-02-02T20:45:00.000+05:30

Trail grades are split between those for cross-country singletrack trails and those for extreme trails and forest roads.

This is to highlight that:

forest roads can be of variable difficulty and are not part of a progression on to green and blue level singletrack trails.
Similarly, orange-graded trails/features are not simply a progression on from singletrack grades.
Explanations for each of the gradings are given below the symbol tables.

Cross country single-track trail grades

These are a general indication of difficulty - there are easier and trickier options available within each grade.

Non-single-track trail grades

What is X-Biking and who developed it?

2004-01-17T15:06:00.000+05:30

X-Biking is the term used to describe an indoor cycling program conducted while riding the new Trixter X-Bike™ Indoor Performance Cycle. The X-Bike is a revolutionary next-generation indoor bicycle designed by Trixter Developments, LTD based in Wiltshire, England. X-Biking, different than traditional indoor cycling (Spinning), provides a total body, true-to-real cycling indoor workout more akin to cross training typically only possible with a combination of exercises and equipment or a real outdoor bicycle.

Who is doing X-Biking?

2004-01-16T15:04:00.000+05:30

There are numerous professional athletes and trainers that have been using and endorsing X-Bikes and X-Biking since their introduction nearly two years ago. These people include:

Missy Giove, two-time downhill mountain bike world champion, mother of female extreme sports competition and mountain bike Hall of Fame member

Greg Minnaar, 2005 men’s downhill mountain bike world cup champion

Ricky Carmichael, multi-time AMA Supercross and Motocross champion

The Renault F1 Driver Development Program and Human Performance Center

Gunnar Peterson, celebrity and sports athlete trainer

There are also 100 health clubs in North America who are now offering X-Biking to their current and prospective members.

What makes X-Biking different from traditional indoor cycling (Spinning)?

2004-01-15T14:57:00.000+05:30

There are many things that differentiate X-Biking from the indoor cycling that most people are familiar with.

First and foremost, the patented X-Bars (right) are designed to engage the upper-body and core musculature as the rider moves them from side to side mimicking the real motion created when riding a real mountain or road bike out of the saddle while climbing or sprinting. The handlebar movement also promotes improved balance and coordination functions further enhancing the effectiveness of regular X-Bike rides. Further, the X-Bars incorporate a resistance mechanism to enhance the upper body and core workout not possible with traditional indoor cycling (Spinning).

Second, the X-Bike uses a standard ‘freewheel’ gear mechanism unlike the ‘fixed gear’ mechanism found on the traditional Spinning bike. The X-Bike’s freewheel gear makes it the safest indoor bike to ride and further enhances X-Biking workouts because the rider is forced to maintain correct form and utilize their entire pedal stroke, thereby increasing the overall metabolic cost of the effort. This is just one of the reasons X-Biking classes need only be 30 minutes long.

Third, the X-Bike features an on-the-fly shifting mechanism that permits the rider to control the resistance at the pedals without moving their hand from the handlebars and with a very high degree of accuracy.

Why is the X-Bike class 30 minutes instead of the usual 45 minutes with traditional indoor cycling (Spinning)?

2004-01-14T14:56:00.000+05:30

FASTER – Part of the three word X-Biking tagline… FITTER. FUNNER. FASTER. The average rider will burn about 500 calories riding any of the 30-minute interval based X-Biking classes. It can take up to twice as long to reach the same goal riding traditional fixed-bar, fixed-gear, indoor bikes. Plus, the pre-programmed X-Biking classes with custom music tracks designed for each of the unique ride profiles free your X-Biking instructor to focus entirely on your needs as a rider rather than writing the workouts or being a killer DJ.

Will the shoes that work with spin bikes work with the X-Bike?

2004-01-13T14:55:00.000+05:30

If you’re shoes worked with the Spinning bike, they will work exactly the same with the X-Bike.

How does the X-Bike provide a fundamentally better “core” workout than a traditional indoor bike?

2004-01-12T14:49:00.000+05:30

On a traditional rigid indoor spin bike with a fixed gear flywheel, the ‘equipment’ provides a stable platform on which the rider works. The handlebar rigidity forces the arms and lower spine to act as stabilizers while the transfer of flywheel momentum through the cranks means that the pedal acts as a stable platform on the upstroke. In essence, the stability of the equipment negates the recruitment of the core stabilizers.

On the X-Bike, the natural, true-to-cycling movement of the handlebars and freewheeling drive train give the user fewer stable contact points and result in the engagement of the core stabilizers to fix the user over the bike in the appropriate position to pedal.

Why the X-Bar ‘pump’?

2004-01-11T14:48:00.000+05:30

No one runs with their arms fixed in position by their sides – so why would anyone want to ride a bike with their arms rigidly fixed either?

Many sport-specific moves involve the upper and lower halves of the body doing something different yet acting simultaneously. The weird thing is that success in many of these different sports is affected by the position of the pelvis and where it remains.

To run fast, to skate fast, to moto-cross fast, to hit a fast ball, to turn fast on a pair of skis and of course to mountain bike, road bike and X-Bike our pelvis must constantly be the ‘peace keeper’ and remain stable between the two halves of our body. As they perform different actions at the same time, the pelvis unites the body, allowing you to perform to the best your ability - without developing injuries.

The X-Bike is the only indoor bike that allows you to better maintain a stable and neutral pelvic position while allowing simultaneous motion and resistance work for your upper body!

Will X-Biking hurt my back?

2004-01-10T14:48:00.000+05:30

Riding out of the saddle on indoor bikes with rigid bars causes torsion of the pelvis and lower back. This situation does not occur when riding out of the saddle on an X-Bike as the pelvis is more stable and neutral.

Isn’t ‘fixed wheel’ better?

2004-01-09T14:47:00.000+05:30

Better if you want to cheat! If you pedal a fixed wheel bike flywheel up to speed and then take your feet off, the pedals keep turning! With a fixed wheel bike, the momentum of the flywheel drives the pedals round. If you relaxed your legs they would move, but would not be generating any external work – in other words they’d be making no positive demands on the body’s adaptive reserves. With the freewheel X-Bike, the pedals only turn when you make them turn. Without adequate resistance, the drive-train is slack and it becomes impossible to pedal smoothly – in effect X-Bike prevents riders from wasting time with exercise at too low an intensity to produce cardiovascular fitness gains.

What sets X-Biking programs apart from other group cycling programs?

2004-01-07T14:24:00.000+05:30

X-Biking is quite different from other forms of indoor group cycling. But different is not necessarily better. So, what are the central features of the X-Bike indoor performance bike and X-Biking program that deliver unrivalled benefits to users?

Core (as mentioned above)

On the X-Bike, the natural true-to-cycling movement of the handlebars and freewheeling drive train give the user fewer stable contact points and result in the engagement of the core stabilizers to fix the user over the bike in an appropriate position to pedal.

Stable bridge (as referred to in ‘hurt my back’)

When riding out of the saddle with a rigid bar, the active lower-body and rigid upper-body creates rotation of the pelvis and lower back. On the X-Bike, when the rider initiates a pump of the X-Bars, it stabilizes the pelvis, allowing it to become the stable bridge between the now-active upper body and the lower limbs.

Recruitment

The X-Bike expands indoor cycling from its history as a linear lower-limb workout. With X-Biking, so many muscles and planes of movement are used it makes for a neurologically demanding workout. The pedaling action is in the frontal plane, the pump effect of X-Bar climbing is working in the sagitial plane and the core that is stabilizing the upper and lower halves is working in the transverse plane.

The degree and frequency of movement in X-Biking is great; therefore the amount of recruitment from agonist, antagonist and synergistic muscles is going to be high. X-Biking is interval based, requiring dynamic movement with many different stress variables recruiting the rider’s stabilizing musculature. Short and medium interval durations with repetitive periods which trains them for muscular endurance you can understand why we call it a full body workout.

Proprioception

The need to stabilize the body whilst X-Biking requires a good degree of proprioceptive skill. Sensing the tension in both limb and core musculature ensures the correct body position. Selecting power resistances in both pedals and handlebars whilst undertaking a pumping, out-of-the-saddle climb can enhance this proprioceptive training effect.

Upper-body

Obviously moving the X-Bars against resistance adds a significant element of upper-body conditioning. The ability to use varied hand positions to target specific upper-body muscle groups can further enhance the quality of the workout.

Interval Training

The interval training protocol of X-Biking delivers varied benefits. The elite endurance athlete has long been aware of the efficacy of interval workouts as a means of enhancing Vo2max and any of the X-Biking ride profiles are specifically designed with this aim in mind. X-Biking is wholly interval based and as such targets more then just the aerobic system. Strength, short-term power, lactic acid tolerance and intensity threshold training can all be achieved by the careful application of intensity during the rides.

Interval training has also been shown to increase fat loss above levels attained during steady state training due to its high overall energy cost, appetite control, and enhanced post-exercise-thermogenesis, [PET]. X-Biking typically enables users to burn between 400 and 600 calories per 30-minutes class.

In addition, high intensity interval training has been found to enhance bone strength due to the greater magnitude of muscular loading. Higher rates of muscle contraction enhance the stimulus for new bone growth and alteration of the normal pattern of bone loading [direction of the force] associated with movement across all three planes within X-Biking, even with other variables held constant, also stimulates bone growth.

Prior to each transition from freewheeling to pumping climb the core musculature engages to provide a stable base prior to the generation of pedal forces. This cannot be achieved, with the same success, using other programs or bikes.

Freewheel

The freewheeling drive train was initially incorporated into the X-Bike purely to replicate the ‘freewheeling’ of an outdoor bike. However it brings benefits in it’s own right, from the ability to undertake short duration intervals, to the safety aspect of allowing instant stops. In addition, by removing the ‘fixed gear’ (found on current indoor bikes) and the added flywheel momentum a ‘fixed gear’ provides the user, an X-Bike rider must apply adequate effort to pull the pedals through the bottom of the pedal stroke.

Immersion/Anticipation

Fitness professionals are challenged daily to ensure and inspire ongoing participation in exercise programs. X-Bikes and X-Biking are designed to help. The imagery within the program takes you through a broad range of efforts and feelings. X-Biking involves the visual, aural, tactile, smell senses and the unique movement opportunities delivered by the X-Bike. The powerful imagery helps riders become immersed in the activity.

Central to X-Biking is the ability of the body movements and music to facilitate awesome imagery as riders are led on a group ride. When you are able to sprint hard and then suddenly stop pedaling, you can use real-world imagery and scenarios which mountain bikers and all other riders can easily identify with – it’s like playing the air guitar! There are unlimited combinations of motivational and inspirational imagery.

X-Biking programs are designed to totally immerse you in a fun and exciting workout. With the variety of movements that simulate real outdoor cycling, time roars by and before you know it 30 minutes feel like 20. When you anticipate the changes in terrain and tempo, the program sucks you in with the emotive music as you pedaling in sync with the beat. The workouts are comprehensively designed to deliver high-quality cardiovascular and full-body muscle conditioning. When hard efforts are more interesting, a rider will be able to mentally sustain higher intensities because they are less focused on the effort and more involved in the rhythm and location of the ride. The participants will reach new heights in fitness, as they will be able to consistently push their limits physically because the program will not mentally fatigue them.

Mountain Biking - Student Gear List

2003-09-02T19:27:00.003+05:30

CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT NEEDS

The biking environments have potential for snow and sun. Be prepared for the extremes of weather.

FOR BIKING

 Bike, in excellent condition (do not let a poorly maintained bike ruin your trip)

 Helmet, safety standards approved AND in excellent condition = NO cracks

 Water bottle(s) and cage, or a hydration system

 Small tool kit (includes spare tube, tyre levers, patch kit, pump)

 Padded cycle shorts (2 pairs if possible)

 Polypro or wool tops

 Long polypro pants cycling tights or similar

 Lightweight wind jacket

 Small back pack (to store repair kit & snacks).

 Appropriate cycling footwear (runners or skate shoes with socks are appropriate)

 Full finger gloves

 Balaclava or hat

 Sunglasses – preferably with a lightly tinted lens, better for riding in challenging light situations

 Torch

 Personal First Aid Kit – includes personal medication, Elastoplast, roll of sleek, gauze bandage, insect repellant ("Dimp") sunburn cream or lotion, scissors, emergency blanket

Also accessible in small backpack…

 Waterproof parka

 Windproof over-trousers

 Spare warm clothes

 Mittens or gloves

 LUNCH and snacks

FOR OVERNIGHT CAMPING

 Sleeping bag

 Sleeping mat: thermarest/closed cell foam mat, perhaps two.

 Lots of tasty snacks.

 Torch, batteries and bulb

 Matches or cigarette lighter, candle

 Spare plastic bags (for dirty clothes etc)

 1 large plastic bowl (dinner & cereal)

 Knife, spoon, fork, plastic mug / cup

 Tooth cleaning gear

 Personal hygiene needs

 Socks galore, clean!

 Underwear

 2 polypro or wool shirts

 2 pair polypro /wool longs johns

 1 woollen Jersey or polar fleece jacket.

 Small towel, biodegradable soap.

 Heaps of warm clothes

 2^nd pair of shoes for evening wear

 Swimming togs

 Money for extra food and snacks

 Pack /bag for storing all of above

Optional…

 Allen keys, chain lube (ask your bike shop what the best type is)

 Camera, extra film

The Danger of Too Much Water for the Cyclist

2003-07-10T21:46:00.000+05:30

We lose salt plus water in our sweat. If you do long workouts or races there is a danger in replacing these losses with just water. You can develop a condition called “hyponatremia” which means the body has too low a salt concentration in the body fluid. It is hard to believe but athletes can die from consuming too much water. In one case a high school football team practiced in full uniform in very hot weather. Obviously they lost a lot of fluid weight. The coach told one player to go drink several quarts of water. A short time later he had a seizure and died due to this condition called “hyponatremia”. He lost a lot of sodium and potassium in his sweat, and when he drank a large amount of plain water, his body’s sodium concentration became dangerously low .Endurance athletes must understand that fluid losses from extended exercise must be replaced with a sport drink that contains sodium and potassium. It is also important to understand how much fluid you lose per hour and not over replace it in order to avoid hyponatremia (low sodium in the body fluid).

Recreational athletes or competitive athletes doing only short work outs do not need sports drinks and can just use water. If you are just doing a short criterium you won’t drink during the race so you need to focus on pre and post race hydration.

There is a great article for you to look at on Proper Hydration for Distance Running, written by the USA Track and Field Advisory Group. I have applied many of its recommendations to this web article. The link to their article is http://www.usatf.org/coaches/library/hydration/ This article I think has the best science about hydration for long distance events and applies equally well to cycling.

When does a Cyclist need extra salt?

2003-07-09T21:43:00.000+05:30

Well everyone is different, and obviously you sweat more if it is hotter, or if it is a long event. Lance found that out this year. When you are in a hotter environment than you are used to, after 2-3 days you start sweating more which is a sign that you are acclimated or adjusted to the new temperatures. Team Swift had that experience when they went to the Nationals in Texas and spent several days ahead of the competition training to get acclimated to the heat and humidity. When you are first in a hotter environment, the first few days you will need more salt in your diet or drinks. You can have V-8, salted pretzels, broth which is high in salt, or similar foods with a bit extra salt.

How do you know how much you sweat?

Do a one hour intense training ride and do this simple test. Do this on a harder workout day, not a rest day. This number will not be an exact number for every situation,

A very simple test.

1. Before a one hour ride, go pee, then weigh yourself buck naked.
2. Measure how many ounces of liquid you take with you on the ride.
3. After the ride, weigh yourself buck naked before you pee.
4. Measure how many ounces of fluid you drank during the ride.
5. Convert your weight in pounds to ounces by multiplying your weight in pounds by 16

Use this formula:

Weight before ride in ounces Minus weight after ride in ouncesMinus ounces of fluid consumed. The answer is the number of ounces of fluid you need per hour to replace the fluid you lose from sweat. Redo the test for rides in different temperature conditions.

Visit the USA Track and field site and see their complete self test for optimal hydration that I simplified above. Their test applies to running, but the same principles can be applied to cycling.

The 7 Rules of Hydration for the Competitive Cyclist - Stephen Weiss

2003-07-08T21:42:00.000+05:30

Hydration is replacing fluid lost during exercise. Doing it right means wining races. Do it wrong and you will lose races or even face serious medical difficulties. What you drink during a ride provides you with water, and if you use a sport drink it also gives you fuel for your muscles (in the form of sugars) and minerals to replace sodium and potassium lost in sweat. Lance Armstrong almost lost this year’s Tour in the first individual time trial when he became dehydrated.

Lance spoke about what happened. He lost almost 15lbs in body fluid. Try filling a bucket on a scale to see how much water that is. It is the amount of fluid in 20 cans of soda, or just under two gallons of milk. Lance is an expert on how his body responds to exercise, and how much fluid he needs to drink to be at his peak ability. He messed up on the day of the individual time trial. He underestimated his fluid losses in the hours ahead of the race as he warmed up because of the unusual heat and humidity. He lost a lot of time to Ulrich. The next day in the first stage in the Pyrenees he also did not perform well. He made another important point about hydration in the post race interview. If you get into trouble with dehydration, it can take several days to recover. Think about it, we are made up of millions of cells and it can take several days of fluid replacement to get them back to normal functioning. That means days where muscle, lung, and brain are not functioning at 100%. Hydration is about succeeding today, but it is also about being able to ride tomorrow. If you are doing a rest-day short ride of less than an hour, it may not matter if you drink enough, but if you are riding every day, it does.

Simple Rules On Hydration

1. Use a sports drink like Extran or Gatorade since they gives you sodium and potassium that replaces what you lose in sweat. http://www.extranusa.com/homefcpu.asp It also gives you carbohydrate (sugars) that gives your muscle the fuel it needs to function. Do not make the mistake of mixing a sport drink too weak or diluting it to make it last longer. These drinks are formulated in order to give you the right amount of fuel and minerals. Check out the Gatorade Sports Science Institute web site where much of the research on hydration is summarized: http://www.gssiweb.com/

2. If you don’t like the taste of a sport drink you won’t drink it, so find one you like. Just be sure it has similar sodium and potassium and sugar content as Extran or Gatorade. Some people have trouble handling certain sugars used in the drinks and can get stomach cramps. Try several until you find one that works for you. A general rule is a drink that is around 6% carbohydrate (sugars) and has at least 100mg sodium and 35mg potassium per 8 ounces.

3. For rides over an hour or very hot conditions use a sports drink not plain water.

4. Before a long training ride or race, drink 17-20 ounces of water or sports drink 2-3 hours before the event. Then another 10-12 ounces 10 minutes or so before the event.

5. During the event drink a sports drink at a rate that replaces your sweat losses.

6. After the event, be sure to replace your fluid losses with a sport drink within 2 hours.

7. A lot of fluid is lost through breathing, so even in cold weather where you don’t think you are sweating much you are still losing fluids.

Knee Pain 101 for Cyclists

2003-06-07T09:53:00.000+05:30

Bicycling is a wonderful activity and a great sport. It is a low impact sport and helps develop cardiovascular fitness and maintain your general health. The knee is critical in the cycling motion so you must be very careful and take immediate action should you develop any knee pain with cycling.

The knee is a complex joint with a built in rotational component and the repetitive motion of pedaling occurs hundred-of-thousands of times with cycling. The joint reaction forces that develop can put strain on the muscles, tendons, and the cartilage of the knee and over time can create injury that leads to pain. The causes can be complex and the pain can be frustrating. What should you do if you begin to develop knee pain when cycling? The answers to the following questions will help you to determine the cause of the pain and develop a solution:

Location of the Pain:
The first thing to consider is the location of the pain. Do you feel your pain on the front, inside, outside or back of your knee? The location of the pain corresponds to a particular structure and also provides clues to the solution for the problem.

Timing of the Pain:
Second, when do you develop the pain? Does it occur at the beginning of a ride, after you’ve been riding for 20min, 30min, or 4 hours, or does it only occur when you are sprinting or climbing steep hills? Does the pain go away after you stop riding or does it continue to hurt with normal daily activities or ache at night or when sitting for a long time?

Relieving Factors:
Third, what makes the pain feel better? Does it go away if you use an easier gear or ride a different bike? Is it worse when it’s cold and better when you are warm?

History of Knee Pain:
Another important question, have you ever had knee pain before? What were the factors surrounding your prior episode of pain? What did you do then to help your problem? What worked? What didn’t help?

The most common location of knee pain is in the front (anterior) of the knee, around the knee cap (patella). The patella tracks in a groove formed by the femur (thigh bone) and forms the patellofemoral joint. If anything alters the alignment of this joint, the patella can track abnormally and begin to rub the cartilage on the undersurface which causes pain. This is knows as ‘patellofemoral syndrome’ (PFS). There are numerous resources on the internet available if you wish to read more about the details of PFS. The solution is to try and find why the patella is tracking abnormally.

So what if you have pain on the sides of your knee or in the back of the knee? Pain on the outside of the knee is most commonly an Iliotibial band friction syndrome (ITBS). The iliotibial band is a long tendon running along the side of your thigh and can rub over the side of your knee. This can often occur in young athletes who have recently been through a large growth spurt. It is critical to increase you stretching program, particularly focusing on the ITB. Often time a ‘foam roller’ can be used to help lengthen and improve the flexibility of the ITB which helps reduce the friction across the joint. Pain on the inside of the knee most commonly is Pes Anserine bursitis, which is inflammation of a friction reducing fluid filled sack where the hamstring tendons attach on the inside of your tibia (shin bone). Pain the back of the knee is most commonly a hamstring tendonitis, which is inflammation on the attachments of the hamstring muscles into the tibia. The corrections for these problems are similar to PFS and involve careful inspection of your position on the bike, consideration of your own alignment and anatomy, and alterations in your training program and cycling technique.

Steps to helping your knees:
1. Proper Bike Position: The number one cause is that you are not positioned properly on the bike. Even a small alteration in a rider’s position, amplified thousands of times as the knee flexes and extends during the pedaling motion can produce big problems. The most common causes are having the seat to low, having the cleats mis-aligned or having crank arms that are too long. Be sure to check with your coach or see a trained professional to get your position on the bike dialed in.

2. Another common cause can be your own anatomical alignment. If you have different leg lengths or problems with the arches of you feet, or muscles/tendons that are too tight you may still have problems even when you are seemingly in the right position on a bike. The use of shims or orthotics can help, but usually you will want to check with a Sports Medicine physician who is knowledgeable about cycling first. For young cyclists who have gone through a growth spurt, you can have tight muscles, particularly the quadriceps (front of thigh) and hamstrings (back of thigh), which can contribute to the pain. A good stretching program can also be very helpful and should be incorporated into your training program.

3. Ice cup massage works great. Fill a small paper cup with water and freeze it. Pull the top half of the paper off, then holding the paper on the bottom; invert the ice cup and massage the ice over the sore spot on your knee.

4. Medications, such as ibuprofen or naproxen, are anti-inflammatories and can help relieve pain and swelling when the knee is acutely injured. It is important that you always use these medications appropriately and safely. Some nutritional supplements may be helpful both in relieving the pain and perhaps even in decreasing the loss of cartilage, which is the protective layer of tissue covering the bones over joint surfaces. Although there are many supplements on the market, there aren’t many good scientific studies confirming there positive effects. There have been some decent studies showing some benefit from the use of glucosamine. The beneficial use of these substances in young people however remains to be proven. There really is no substitute for good nutrition and the key is a having a good, healthy diet-appropriately balanced for your body and your training program.

5. Another key factor is your training program. Too much training too early in the season, climbing lots of steep hills or using too big a gear and pedaling at low RPMs can put excessive forces on the knee which can cause problems. Be sure to check with your coach because careful modifications to your training program and your cycling technique may be necessary.

6. Weather and the timing of your season can contribute to the development of knee pain. In the winter, after a break off the bicycle, one can sometimes train too hard, too soon. Remember to gradually increase your mileage and the intensity of your efforts in the early season to give you body time to adjust to the stresses of a vigorous training program. You should also always wear well-fitting knee warmers or tights to keep your knees warm during the cold season months. I generally recommend you cover your knees when riding in temperatures less than 60 deg. F.

Bicycling is a great recreational activity and a great competitive sport. The benefits of cycling are numerous, but you should never ignore knee pain or just try to work through it and hope it will go away. Think about all the important factors we’ve discussed and talk to your coach so you can remedy the problem before it becomes serious. If your knee pain persists despite trying all the necessary steps then you should definitely be seen by a Sports Medicine physician with expertise in treating cyclists.